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Custom Dodge Ram - Complete Builds When you are modding everything on your Dodge Ram, this is the place to showcase the build.


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  #151  
Old 04-30-2012, 12:28 AM
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Lol oh I got one for ya Sean, just seeing which one your throwing at me before I go balls to the wall lmao.

Glad it worked man! Hope you enjoy it and inspire others to do a swap!
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14" magnaflow with custom magna y-pipe, 8k heads and fogs, hella FF 500's, 5% tint all the way, 60" LED brake light, Smoked tails and 3rd, Ballistic Jesters in 275/55/20 zeon ltz, color matched handles/mirrors, painted calipers, L.E.D interior, debadged & Viper 5901, 180 t-stat
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  #152  
Old 04-30-2012, 09:02 PM
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Since you're all so (im)patient:



Seems like both wheels grab when it's a straight line on good pavement (equal traction to both sides). If it's unequal traction it does a one wheel squeal. Can't wait to change gears and get LSD.

Notice the avg mpg lol, worst I've ever seen since I bought the truck. Spend about a quarter tank burning out all across town. Well, not literally, but you know...
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  #153  
Old 04-30-2012, 09:27 PM
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That's awesome! Was it a hard install?
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  #154  
Old 04-30-2012, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
That's awesome! Was it a hard install?
Not really, it was pretty easy, just takes a long time. It's just sort of uncomfortable laying under the truck doing all the work, but it's all pretty easy.

Here's basically the process(or at least how I did it):

Lift front wheels off the ground for clearance to lay under truck and have working room(block rear wheels and make sure parking brake is on).

Disconnect negative battery cable.

Unplug all electrical connections.

Unhook shifter linkage, and unbolt shifter linkage bracket.

Remove 4 exhaust bolts holding down pipes to the manifolds(this is probably one of the harder parts as one bolt is near impossible to access). Also loosen the exhaust clamp either at the y pipe or before the muffler(we did before the muffler as it was easier to slip off). Leave the exhaust loose for now.

Unbolt drive shaft from differential(4 bolts). These bolts were UNBELIEVABLY tight. This was probably the hardest part of the job on my truck. If you remove the driveshaft from the transmission it will leak fluid, so we zip tied the drive shaft to the transmission and set the rear of the shaft on a creeper(on wheels) so it would move with the transmission when we moved it around.

Remove starter(2 bolts). I zip tied the starter to the frame so I didn't have to undo the wires.

Remove flexplate access plate(8 bolts IIRC).

Unbolt the 4 torque converter bolts that hold the torque converter to the flexplate. Use a ratchet on the crankshaft pulley to turn the engine and flexplate to gain access to the bolts.

Remove the transmission fluid dipstick. Unbolt the dipstick tube(2 bolts). One bolt is also a bell housing bolt, the other is at the case. Slip the tube out and either remove it or push it out of the way(I zip tied it out of the way).

Position transmission jack under transmission to support it. Remove cross member bolts(4 IIRC) and transmission mount bolts(3 IIRC). Remove cross member(we had to beat it out with a hammer).

At this point the loose exhaust falls out. If you unbolt it at the y pipe you could probably take the exhaust out sooner.

Unclip the cooler lines. This is pretty self explanatory if you look at it. The caps just pop off then the clips are similar to c clips. These leak a little as well.

Remove bell housing bolts. Be careful the transmission is heavy and awkward.

Pull transmission and jack back away from the engine, lower all the way down. We only pulled it away about a foot or two, just enough to access the converter.

Pull torque converter out of transmission. This will leak a little fluid. Also, it is HEAVY.

Put new o-ring on new converter, make sure the hub is smooth(no burs, etc. that can rip the seal). Rub trans fluid on the o ring and the hub to lubricate, put some fluid in the converter(maybe a quart or two), then install. Make sure it is fully seated. You should have about 1/2" between the face of the bell housing and the torque converter. When we installed the converter, the case of the converter rubbed against the bell housing, but once you get it all bolted up and bolt the flex pate to the converter, it sucks the converter forward and it does not rub any more.

Put grease or vaseline on the front "hub" of the converter where it sits in the crankshaft.

Lift transmission on jack and position it to the engine. This is where a friend really helps out. Takes a few minutes to get it lined up, but you'll get it. Install two bolts snug to hold it in place. Install all the bell housing bolts snug then check that no wires, etc. are caught in between the bell housing and the engine (we had a ground strap caught....glad I checked). Torque the bell housing bolts. Remember the dipstick tube is held by one of these bolts, so you have to reinstall the dip stick tube at the same time.

Install the exhaust and snug the bolts. We waited until the end to torque them down since the angle of the engine slightly changes.

Reinstall cross member and transmission mount.

Once the transmission is in final position, install and torque the flex plate to torque converter bolts. I reused the bolts with some blue loctite. I actually bought new bolts but the dealer apparently gave me the wrong size.

Install inspection cover and starter.

Install cooler lines.

Reconnect all electrical connections.

Reconnect drive shaft.

Torque down the exhaust.

Top off the fluid if needed.

Check and double check and triple check everything. Reconnect battery, lower truck, etc. and fire it up. Hopefully it starts normal lol. Mine did.

This is sort of a by memory write up, but it is pretty complete I think. If I missed anything let me know and I'll edit it. It's an easy job, just takes a lot of time, there is a lot involved. Took us about 6 hours IIRC.
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  #155  
Old 05-01-2012, 02:13 AM
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moparornocar72 moparornocar72 is offline
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Nice! Thanks for the info!
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  #156  
Old 05-01-2012, 02:30 AM
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InDeepWaterBlue InDeepWaterBlue is offline
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Well I guess if I ever need another TC installed I'll just drive a couple hours south :P
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  #157  
Old 05-01-2012, 08:53 AM
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snrusnak snrusnak is offline
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Quote:
Well I guess if I ever need another TC installed I'll just drive a couple hours south :P
I'd be glad to help . I could do it in 4 hours or less if I did it again. Second time is always easier.

How do you like your converter? What's the stall rpm?
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  #158  
Old 05-01-2012, 12:34 PM
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InDeepWaterBlue InDeepWaterBlue is offline
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For the few days I was able to drive my truck I loved it, launching from a dig was great as well as blasting onto the on-ramps lol It stalls around the 2800RPM mark and I think that's just about perfect for something I want to keep as a daily driver.
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  #159  
Old 05-01-2012, 01:04 PM
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snrusnak snrusnak is offline
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Cool. I just used the flashpaq data logging and my truck has gotten slower since I put the converter in lol. Almost a second slower in 0-60. I guess due to tire spin? I can't get it to hook.

If I ever get to the track I doubt it would spin there, it's very sticky. I can't imagine it is actually slower.
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Last edited by snrusnak; 05-01-2012 at 01:06 PM.
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  #160  
Old 05-01-2012, 01:11 PM
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BlackHemI BlackHemI is offline
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hmm slower? weird!!! but ncie install
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