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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 5.7 HEMI V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 5.7-liter HEMI® V8 engine - 390 horsepower, 407 lb-ft of torque.


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  #201  
Old 07-26-2011, 09:47 PM
RootBeer RootBeer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LV2011HEMI View Post
From what I'm gathering from this thread, other forums and people I talk to, the stock air box on my 2011 HEMI is excellent and there's no need to change it. However, the ribbed tube is definitely an issue. My question is, do they make an aftermarket "smooth" replacement tube? If not, would a throttle body spacer be a good way to re-allign the air flow out if the ribbed tube and into the engine???
If you find an after-market tube, let us ALL know.

As for the spacer, do a search on the forum and you'll find a large amount of people saying don't waster your money.
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  #202  
Old 07-30-2011, 05:42 PM
Mustangmike66 Mustangmike66 is offline
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Reading Schnitzer21's post made me glad that I bought a K&N drop in. Outstanding information Schnitzer. Well done!
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  #203  
Old 07-31-2011, 01:26 AM
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granted, colder air is always better and it was cool to see the temp comparisons... what i wish we could see at the same time is a measurement of how much air volume can move through the cai. Dropin doesn't flow enough for my truck...
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  #204  
Old 07-31-2011, 04:26 AM
theweavman theweavman is offline
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Keep in mind that no matter where the air originates from, it is routed thru tubes which are inside your engine compartment and connected to your hot engine mounted throttle body..these plastic or metal air ducts pick up and hold heat from under the hood and heat the air as it makes contact and moves thru the ducts.....the very slight air temp differences between closed and open is so slight that I doubt it makes almost any difference at all, the biggest difference comes from having larger, smoother & straighter air ducts, plus a larger and less restrictive filter element, a check of the different manufactures rated HP and torque improvment claims might be a good place to start your evaluations...at least it offers some type of rated comparisons, beside price....none of them are going to turn a heavy 4X4 or 2X2 truck into an Indy Car...however, I know we all want as much bang for our buck as possible...and most of these systems are pretty comparible....If anyone brand was clearly superior in all respects, everyone would copy that design, and we would all be running the same system
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  #205  
Old 08-02-2011, 03:05 PM
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The stock intake on a 4G Hemi is already a CAI, but has three weak points (IMHO):

The filter element is restrictive in size and construction.
The intake tube is ribbed, but not for her pleasure.
The fender opening is restrictive and not conducive to maximum airflow.

For those who have not looked at the fender opening, the headlight bucket/bracket and frame obstruct most of the opening ...
The restrictive fender duct is (IMHO) the lowest common denominator to ALL current CAI's, and the main flaw/obstacle most manufacturers have neglected to address.
...although the Volant does have an optional lower port on their box that would benefit from this cheap little bumper Ram mod.


Here's the view from the engine bay after removing the stock box:



view from the front on a friends Ram with headlight removed at the track


Close up




The "limited" path the air has to take when the headlight is installed




My Solution for better flowing, cooler intake air that anyone can DIY:

1. Lose the Engine cover ! (it's a Heat Trap!)
that does nothing but cook your intake runners! (Free!)

2. Install a Jet 180º T-Stat ($30) simple 10 minute swap
...cool your engine by 15º and your engine bay temps and intake air temps will be lower too.

3. Billet Technology Catch Can ($130) another 10 minute mod anyone can do
not really a CAI mod in itself, but a supporting mod to reduce Hot Oil saturated vapor directed to Your Intake from the PCV

4. Get the Biggest Filter element available! No such thing as too Big!
I went with Airaid after trying the stock box K&N drop in and found it wasn't enough.

5. Larger, Smooth surface plastic intake Tube!
for me, Airaid's Triple Lobe tube fit the bill once again.

6. Fastman's Modified 85mm Throttle Body ($212 shipped)
the polished Taper Bore and Half Shaft mod free up more flow at a higher velocity.

7. Ram Air! I redirected my air source to take in air from the lower "Front" of my Sport bumper after removing the fake plastic grill.
adjustable Flex Tube ...actually designed for draining water away from your house ($6) Lowes Hardware.

Of course having the Tuning and Exhaust supporting mods helps too
(Magnaflow CatBack and Y-Pipe, and my JBA Headers are on the way)

Pic's (of course)


my HUGE Airaid Filter element




Smooth Triple Lobe intake tube (old pic before engine cover was removed and tossed)


The Rubber edging seals the box to the underside of the hood, but it's not 100%.
So I picked up some self adhesive foam/rubber pipe insulation from Lowes ($5)
and ran it right over top the rubber seal and along the fender side edge too, pic's coming soon.



Billet Tech Catch Can


After just one week after install and a single evening at the track, about 8-9 quarter mile passes...




Stock TB vs FastMan Throttle Body (right) taper bore 85mm and half shaft removed for a smoother higher flow




Removed lower fake grill. I think it looks better without it anyway
it's ugly, non-functional, faded plastic and doesn't match my Black Honeycomb upper grill anyway.
I cant prove it, but I'll bet it helps engine bay air circulation/ventilation as well. No tools required, 5 minutes



Lowes Hardware 3.5" Flex Tube (I bought two and a coupler, but because they can extend and bend from 9" up to 21" only one was required)


intake air is now "Rammed" in and up toward the stock fender port from the FRONT where air pressure is highest (at speed) instead of the motor having to suck air from below.




View from below, lower left is the input side, lower right is the fog light housing, up the fender is the blue bungee cord holding the top of the tube in place.
(There's a second bungee holding the lower front of the tube near the bumper)



Testing has been limited to street only so far and I'm melting my poor Terra Grapplers! I can tell by my butt dyno it's working well.
Track testing to follow, and I still have to get a base line Dyno run (slated for August 12th) before my Edge Torque Converter and JBA Headers get installed then my custom CMR Dyno Tuning session.
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Last edited by BlackRamHemi; 08-02-2011 at 04:34 PM.
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  #206  
Old 08-02-2011, 03:50 PM
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^^^^ Great Info For The Gen4 Owners ^^^^
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  #207  
Old 08-02-2011, 03:55 PM
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Where is the top of that flex hose going?
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  #208  
Old 08-02-2011, 04:20 PM
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The top of the flex tube is heading toward the stock fender opening, the same opening all 4G CAI's use...
and stops just below the frame (green oval below), I didn't see any benefit to crushing it to go any further.

The "Difference" is instead of relying on the TB's ability to "suck" air up from the mostly enclosed lower fender area behind the bumper's dead air space
It's now Front "Forced" live air that's Rammed up there from forward momentum



I still might try and fab a rectangular shaped funnel to match the bumper opening,
then mod the plastic lower grill surround and make it a functional Honeycomb grill to match the upper one.



Similar to what MGH did in front for his inter-cooler on his twin turbo setup:

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Last edited by BlackRamHemi; 08-03-2011 at 03:24 PM.
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  #209  
Old 08-02-2011, 04:52 PM
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Got ya! That last picture made it happen for me
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  #210  
Old 08-02-2011, 05:00 PM
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The pipe insulation from Lowes Plumbing department



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