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Custom Dodge Ram Interior Modifications - Custom Audio / Video All custom mods on the interior of your Dodge Ram. Dodge Ram stereo mods, alarms, electronics, shift knobs, upholstery, etc.


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Old 10-20-2011, 08:51 AM
Dieselkiss's Avatar
Dieselkiss Dieselkiss is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NC
Age: 41
Posts: 220
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Vehicle: 99 Ram 1500
Trim Level: ST - Very Base Model
Color: Red with grey
Engine: 1994-2001 318ci (5.2L) Magnum V8 220hp
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Default Long time coming.

Hey folks, been away for a long time due to work commitments, so I thought I'd update you all on the wiring job.
Sadly, during my time away I suffered a dreaded hard drive death, which meant all the pics I'd taken of the job I lost. Sorry about that, but if you close your eyes real hard you may be able to imagine what I'm talking about ha ha ha ha.

It's been over a year I think since I did the job and I've not had a moments problem with the work I've done. Everything still works, the alarm still works - I've had no issues that I know are common with after market alarms.

Overall the job took a lot longer than I anticipated, but it was worth the extra time to not not set my truck on fire!!!
In the long term, for the central locking, I didn't run through the BCM which would have locked the doors above 15mph - I just decided that risking tapping into it and getting the wrong connection wasn't worth the risk and hassle of replacing the BCM had I mangled it. So instead, I wired the central locking through the alarm, following the instructions in the alarm booklet and diagrams. So now, my doors lock when I turn the ignition on and unlock when I turn it off which suits me fine.

Only slight niggle I have is the drivers side lock button that comes through the top of the door panel occasionally gets wedged. I assume this is from a combination of pressure applied to it from way I had to bend the armature from the solenoid and humidity/weather conditions. In these cases I just pop the key in the door and unlock it. It's an intermittent issue and doesn't happen often enough to make it worth stripping off the door panel and fixing it.
The door panels I got from the 95 model truck fitted without issues, which I'm rather relieved about.

I used after market door solenoids, and switches from a 95 donor truck. Turns out the wiring loom on the 95 and the 99 are NOT the same, so a little study of the schematics for both models and it wasn't hard to work it out and build my own looms.

That's pretty much it. As I say a year on and things are still working great. My alarm system included remote start which was wonderful in the winter months, though honestly.....I can't help thinking it's more a gimmick than anything lol

So my advice after doing this?

1. Plan time for much longer than you first estimate.
2. Be REALLY careful if you intend removing the passenger side airbag.
3. You don't need to remove the entire dash, just all the front and underside panels and switches. This will give you enough room to route looms safely and securely behind the dash.
4. When tapping in to power sources from the fuse box, check you have the right one - then check again -then CHECK AGAIN!!!
5. Always temporarily wire everything up before making any permanent connection and test it. Because you don't want to wire everything up, build your looms finish the job and THEN discover your central locking button now operates the passenger side window. lol
6. Check, check, check and then CHECK AGAIN!! I can't stress this enough. Don't be in a rush, take your time and be triple sure everything works how it should and doesn't adversely affect anything else.
7. A little planning goes a long way. Read your schematics and instructions and then plan every stage of the job out before you start. This isn't really the most complex job in the world but it's long and detailed. Know where to start and know where to finish. It helps no end.

If any one has any questions on the job, by all means ask. It's been a year since I did it so my memory may not be 100% but if I can help I will.
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