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Electrical 3rd Gen Dodge Ram Electrical Problems and Questions.


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  #1  
Old 02-25-2014, 04:33 PM
hwatkins hwatkins is offline
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Default '03 Electric Door Locks-Loud Noise From Driver's Side Rear Door

I tried searching the forum the best I could but found no exact solutions. Whenever I activate the door lock switch on the armrest, or hit the 15 mph speed, the doors lock. but there is a very loud "buzz" noise coming from the left rear door. I removed the panel and plastic liner, but there is nothing visible that can be fixed or replaced. It doesn't help matters that the door skin acts like a symbol and amplifies the noise where I cannot pin-point the source.

Any help is appreciated. HKW
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Old 02-26-2014, 12:30 PM
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My first guess is that you've got an exposed ground going through your speaker. Disconnect the speaker and see if it still does it. If it still buzzes, then I would say your actuator is getting ready to take a long walk off a short pier.
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Old 02-26-2014, 12:56 PM
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It sounds like actuator
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Old 02-27-2014, 05:14 AM
hwatkins hwatkins is offline
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Thanks, Roger and Hemi. I had already removed the speaker so I could peel back the plastic weatherproofing. The loud buzzing noise still persists.

I'll check out replacing the actuator.
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Old 02-27-2014, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hwatkins View Post
Thanks, Roger and Hemi. I had already removed the speaker so I could peel back the plastic weatherproofing. The loud buzzing noise still persists.

I'll check out replacing the actuator.
Good deal. Let us know how it turns out.
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Old 03-28-2014, 01:14 PM
hwatkins hwatkins is offline
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Default Now It's Better Than New!

I checked availability and prices from local parts retailers, dealers, Ebay, and Amazon. I purchased a unit from Amazon and am 100% satisfied.

Removal was a headache, but I'm sure if I had to do it again it wouldn't be so bad. Everything is behind the steel inner door panel and I could not see a thing. I had my new actuator sitting right in front of me so I could tell in what direction the plastic clips unlock by feel. These hold the metal rods in place. The wiring harness wasn't much better. There was hardly any room to get a small tool in there to depress the clip that holds the harness in place.

Once everything was off of the actuator (including the 3 mounting bolts, of course), I had to remove the window track mounting bolt from the door jam, as the track made it impossible to remove the actuator from the door. I was afraid that I would never get the channel mounted back on correctly and screw up the tracking of the window. But it had to come off. I had no choice.

The new unit was right out of a MOPAR box and was an exact replacement. Again, I had the old unit sitting close by so I could see how the rods were installed and how the clamps pivoted to lock the rods in place. One of the three rods is tipped with red dye and one of the three locations for the rods on the actuator has a red plastic pivoting lock. This is somewhat visible and helped a lot.
The window channel track was the last thing I bolted up and turned out to be no problem at all.

The only difficulty I had, and thank goodness it wasn't major, is that I did not pay attention to the orientation of the white rotating clip where the manual locking stem is connected. It is gets easily twisted and can be confusing when pressed back into the steel door panel.

Wish I had pictures, but if I can do this replacement, anyone can.

The actuator cost me $84.00. The low I found was $76 ... high was $130 (plus tax).
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Old 03-28-2014, 07:21 PM
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Voonderbar! That's great to hear. Thanks for the update.
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