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Custom Dodge Ram Interior and Exterior Lighting HID - HALO - LED LIGHTING - UNDERBODY LIGHTING - TINTED/SMOKED/PAINTED TAILS - ETC.


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  #11  
Old 11-11-2013, 10:41 PM
Stewman Stewman is offline
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I have had the same problems with my retro kit....Problems with the fogs not turning on first try, most recently my driver headlight hid wont fire up first try either.... I think it's the ballasts starting to malfunction....I've installed capacitors and resistors and relays and am at the point of ripping everything out and going back to stock to be hassle/worry free lol.
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  #12  
Old 11-12-2013, 05:10 AM
Monster5601 Monster5601 is offline
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I've read a lot of negative comments about buying HID kits off of eBay but I got to tell ya, I bought a 55 watt HID kid for my Tahoe which I still own, six years the HIDs have been running with out fault. I paid $66 for the kit.

I am not impressed with the Retro offering. Bad ballast, different colored HID bulbs, and a fuse holder that fell apart in my hands.

I'm going back the Chinese eBay kits next time.
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  #13  
Old 11-12-2013, 08:24 AM
Asur Asur is offline
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Been running retro kits for almost the last 2 years, have about 15 kits out there on various vehicles, never had a problem, but I also have not bought a kit off them in the last 6 months. maybe there slipping on Quality control, maybe there products that are also made in china are getting crappier. Don't know, I have installed HID's in vehicles for over 15 years, my first kit I paid 1200$ and its still running today (not retro-solution kit), 90% of the time when issues arise its the installation that's the issue, bad grounds, bad connections etc. I have even seen people use dialectic grease on there bulb connections. But Quality on anything is no where near what they produced 10 years ago and you pay for what you get, that it be in the form of after sales service or product quality. But all this is usually relevant to the situation and who installed the product.

Now a couple of things one should think about when installing HID's in vehicles, all vehicles have there own little finicky crap to deal with, even from one ram in one year to another in the same year, but the bases is always the same. first off, never install a kit without testing it outside of the truck before spending hours putting it in only to take it out again, get a battery pack and run them outside, check for overheating ballasts, flickering and bulb color. Most of the bulbs are never checked, they sell like 100's a week and to check them all would mean time and most resellers will not check them. Plasma balls can fluctuate in the bulb due to many reasons, this is why testing outside of the vehicle is important, but be careful, if you don't know what your doing, you can get killed, or burnt, leave this to a pro installer if you don't know what your doing or proceed with caution and your your brain.

second, do not use presently available chassis ground being used by the truck and its components, yes I know its easy, just unscrew the bolt and plug up. Your best connections are on the battery direct. Chassis grounds that are being used by other items on the truck can induce flickering into the light system (not all but some vehicles with crappy alternators can). As for ballast grounds (if you have them) and resistor grounds, find a place you can install a self taping screw, sand down the paint to the metal no bigger than the "connector" and screw it in, then once everything is working spray some lithium grease over the area to protect it.

The above is just my opinion, its really up to you where you buy and what you install and if you need help ask. I do not work for retro solutions and don't care where you buy your products. But expect shit to happen, all these products are still all made in Asia somewhere and QC is next to none. Take the proper steps and read as much as you can you will end up with something modded on your truck that you enjoy, if you can't deal with issue when modding your truck and all you can do is cry in the forums about how pissed you are and crap crap crap, then don't mod your truck. As I said, shit happens.

Some people claim Canbus ballasts off Ebay or other sellers or whatever are better, that's your prerogative, its all up to you. But ask yourself, why does everything else you buy to add on your truck that needs to be powered by the trucks electrical system all come with a wire harness to connect it up to the battery. Yes Canbus was developed to work with the new intelligent vehicles and it does work, yes you don't need a wire harness to make it work, but like anything, they will need a period of time for them to become perfect and 100%, but try this out, do a google search on "HID Blew my TIPM" and see what you come up with. Many people have blown there TIPM module due to improper installations or Canbus ballasts shorting out. Most will not go on a forum and say "I screwed up and blew my TIPM module cause I shorted out my installation, now its costing me 800$" they just start threads on where to buy a cheap TIPM module or how to repair, etc. I have had to repair some friends cars because of these, I have seen from crappy installs with canbus and regular ballasts, so Tell yourself, if something goes poof and your running off the battery, 95% chance your fuse in your wire harness will blow, and not the trigger your getting from the TIPM. But again, I reiterate, JMO, and that's it, If you have questions and think maybe I can enlighten you, PM me, I will eventually read it and get back to you with some form of information.


as I said, the thoughts and idea's expressed in this post are that of the member and are not that of this forums, its owners and staff. Use it accordingly.


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  #14  
Old 11-17-2013, 11:55 AM
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So I got some time yesterday. Singled everything out, ballast, bulb, and the resister. It was the resister. I am going to contact Retro tomorrow and get it swapped out.
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