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  #1  
Old 10-17-2013, 02:06 AM
Himarker Himarker is offline
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Default Wiring into high beam

Hello,

I just hooked up a set of light force 240's and used a KC wiring harness kit. The kit came with a warning regarding using the high beams to trigger your lights to come on with the year 2000 or newer models. I have been reading that it can cause some problems sometimes. Does anyone know if this would be a problem for a 2012 Ram? I also don't want to void the warranty in any way but I would prefer they lights go on and off with the high beams.

Thanks,
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Old 10-17-2013, 06:57 AM
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I would think so long as you used a relay of some sort you won't have too much of a problem. The relay will help reduce the load on the circuit. Dependent upon what lights you have, they can really put a strain on the system.

I'm speaking only from the electrical side of things. I doubt that I know very much more than you do when it comes to the computer that controls all of that crap....

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Old 10-17-2013, 09:01 AM
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Tap the trigger wire from your 240's Relay to the (+) of your High beam bulb, the relay load will not affect anything and your 240's will turn on when your high beams are triggered.
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:04 PM
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Thanks, My plan was to hook the trigger wire into the high beams which should be very little load, just a little nervous about all the computers on theses newer vehicles. The kit did come with a relay and inline fuses.
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Old 10-17-2013, 07:04 PM
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ya, i'd fuse the trigger wire....can never be too safe
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Whiplash View Post
ya, i'd fuse the trigger wire....can never be too safe
You don't need to use a fuse for the trigger wire, it is fused from the high beam + side already. Keep it simple.
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:35 AM
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maybe it's just me....i opt to use as many safeguards as possible
anything ever goes for a shyt at the relay there's a good chance my oem wiring is left untouched
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:52 AM
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personally I'd run my own wire setup to the battery and add a switch in the cab to avoid any warranty hastle. But I'm also very simple minded and don't know enough about these new trucks...every day on this forum is a new learning experience
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiplash View Post
maybe it's just me....i opt to use as many safeguards as possible
anything ever goes for a shyt at the relay there's a good chance my oem wiring is left untouched
If you are really troubled with wiring relays / fuses:

If I tie directly into the light wiring circuit on the truck using a relay I add a diode. It stops the feedback through the trigger wire.

Note: The relay circuit has its own power fuse from the battery through the relay and then to the accessory.

Quenching Diodes:
Anytime that a relay coil is driven by a circuit that is not specifically designed to drive a relay, you should use a quenching/suppression diode connected in parallel with the relay coil. The picture below will show the connection of the diode. Initially, you may think the diode serves no purpose because the voltage applied to the relay cannot pass through the diode. This is true when the relay is energized. The diode comes into play when the power source is removed from the relay coil. When power is applied to the relay coil, a magnetic field is created and energy is stored in the coil. When power is removed, the magnetic field collapses causing a reverse voltage to be generated (it's called inductive kickback or back EMF). The back EMF can easily reach 200 volts. The diode will absorb the reverse voltage spike. This voltage, if not absorbed by the diode, will cause premature failure of switch contacts and may cause the failure of power switching transistors. You can use virtually any type of rectifier or switching diode (i.e. 1N4001, 1N4002, 1N400x... or Radio Shack part #s 276-1101, 276-1102, 276-1103, 276-1104).

The diode from Radio Shack 1N4001 (part #s 276-1101) is what I use.

Greg
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Last edited by gcscott; 10-18-2013 at 10:02 AM.
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