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Electrical 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Electrical Problems and Questions.


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  #11  
Old 05-15-2013, 09:28 PM
Warlock III Warlock III is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
It's all good. Since more is better, why stop at 16 volts? I say run a 1000 volt battery, and open up the spark plug gap to about 3 inches. That should add about 300hp...
Sarcasm is the ugly brother of anger...however in your defense...it is a very useful tool.

Yes on the 1st and 2nd Gen the regulator is in the ECM.

It can be done but the CEL will stay on because the ECM has been bypassed. I've done it with a two prong external regulator but never an adjustable regulator. Maybe it's the same, maybe not.

Remove the harness from the back of the Alt and tape off the two small leads.

Cut two lengths of wire long enough to reach from the alt to the new regulator location. Crimp a ring connector large enough to fit the bolts the plastic block leads were connected to and now taped off. Then attach the lengths of wire to each one. Put them on and tighten the nuts down.

Once the wires are connected to the alt, cut a wire long enough to reach from the regulator to an ignition position (power on with key) of your choice. Take one of the wires from the alt (either one you just attached will do) and the wire from the ignition positive and crimp them into one end of a butt connector making a "Y" connection (2 into one)

Take the doubled wire you just made (battery and alternator) with the butt a butt connector already attached and connect it to the TOP terminal on the pigtail (should be a 3 wire pigtail from the adjustable regulator). Take the other wire from the alt and attach it to the other terminal of the pigtail using a butt connector. Plug the pigtail into the reg, route the wires out of the way and re-install the battery.



Good luck, and maybe mount a fire extinguisher under the hood?

Last edited by Warlock III; 05-15-2013 at 09:35 PM.
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  #12  
Old 05-15-2013, 10:46 PM
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Wiring a Dodge Ram for use with a 12 & 16 volt battery


These are awesum instructions, and I hope to have it wired in a couple of weeks.

There is a big difference in wanting and needing 16 volt. Right now, the truck doesnt need it - I want it. I invented and patented the battery, and it works great for those that want or need it.

Later in the build, i hope to NEED it. The ignition coil and distributor components will handle up to 20 volts, and it will perform better.
(I would LOVE to have your knowledge and assistance at that point, isolating the distributor and coil pack)



Because the battery has BOTH 12 volt and 16 Volt terminals,items that will never need it or tolerate it, will be left on the 12v side of the battery.

I have a NEW starter and alternator coming, and will custom build my own
HD battery cables and wires.



Your step-sde is a work of art, and although Ive never been a fan of them,
I like the fact they are unique and classic looking.

Thank you for your help!!~

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2001 Ram 1500 4x4 sport Yellow extended cab;
HiFlow cat, custom exhaust, Daytona wing, want to lower 2/3" and alot of other updates.

Last edited by ShawnC13; 05-16-2013 at 11:26 AM.
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  #13  
Old 05-16-2013, 01:23 AM
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The voltage has nothing to do with the starter, its the amperage supplied to it... I know for a fact....eg:

Take a motorcycle starter and jump it with a car battery...uh huh, that baby will spin a crank like you wouldn't believe... both batteries are 12v but a motorcycle battery is about 300% less CCA ( cold cranking amps )

Hate to bursts bubbles but, get out the knife and cut it up one side and down the other, might as well throw 2 batteries in and make 24v, and get a voltage drop rectifier/coil for 24 into 12 and run it inline... better yet, just invest in a Diesel truck.
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  #14  
Old 05-16-2013, 11:11 AM
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Oh one other thing I'd suggest. When you wire in the new regulator I'd personally put fusable links in the wiring as a secondary fault protector.

I know I'm not one to talk...but I mask my displeasure for other members into a literary text so not as to be as straight forward and test the reading and comprehension skills of the other members.

snrusnak is a highly regarded and helpful member of the forum. He and I both share a certain high regard for sarcasm. I don't believe he meant any discontent nor misdirection as he is both highly knowledgeable and very helpful. Call it an off day, a Neanderthal moment, or what you will. But I'm quite sure he re-read his post ...DOH, and didn't want to get into a contest and cross streams.

By not addressing an inadvertent error he had made, he showed great restraint, bowed out and left the thread to run it's course.
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:16 AM
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lol

I thought it'd be best if I stopped posting in this thread. Apparently I'm out of my element here.

Crossing streams is way more fun when drunk...
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  #16  
Old 05-16-2013, 11:20 AM
Warlock III Warlock III is online now
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Lets just go the full Monty then...



See sarcasm can be fun
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  #17  
Old 05-16-2013, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonocativo View Post
The voltage has nothing to do with the starter, its the amperage supplied to it... I know for a fact....eg:

Take a motorcycle starter and jump it with a car battery...uh huh, that baby will spin a crank like you wouldn't believe... both batteries are 12v but a motorcycle battery is about 300% less CCA ( cold cranking amps )

Hate to bursts bubbles but, get out the knife and cut it up one side and down the other, might as well throw 2 batteries in and make 24v, and get a voltage drop rectifier/coil for 24 into 12 and run it inline... better yet, just invest in a Diesel truck.
you are partially right - ohms law?

We have dyno tested, raced, and all manufacturer's like MSD agree (for years!) that 16 volt WILL produce more hp, by providing a hotter and reliable spark. Dyno tests dont lie. Voltage DOES increase the RPM of electric motors (ie: starters and fans) by 33%. (and Im gonna change-over to electric fans~)

No, The same components will NOT tollerate 24v (this has been tested repeatedly.) and the amp and stereo components will take 16-19, but not 24.

Certainly, I'll invest another $5k in a diesel to pay $1 a gallon more for fuel, get the same MPG - if you can find me a 01 Dodge 1500 4x4 extended cab, auto, in yellow.......
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  #18  
Old 05-16-2013, 11:27 AM
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LOL.

Well I'm sorry, I didn't realize the VR was in the ecm.

I have known people that run 16v batteries without alternators in racing applications, and they don't get any performance increase, just the benefit of not running an alternator. They pick up some power there, but not from the batteries. There are some benefits in a racing application(better starting on a hard to start engine), can run without an alternator and not drop below 14.2v(causing loss in power), and a "dead" 16v battery will have more than a "good" 12v battery. Some run with no alternator and a 12v battery but they lose power because they drop down from 14.2v to 12v and even lower as the battery drains. With the 16v they stay above the needed 14.2v. These guys often go through starters and other electronics more rapidly than guys running 12v batteries.

JMO I guess. I'm no expert but I just don't see where you'll get more power here. And although I was indeed being sarcastic in my earlier post...in all seriousness, if you think this will give more power, why not go to 20v, or 25v, etc.
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  #19  
Old 05-16-2013, 11:55 AM
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The dyno tests on oem systems and racing engines doesnt lie - with and with alternators, the 33% increase DOES increase HP...
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