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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 4.7 Liter V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 4.7-liter V8 engine - 310 horsepower, 330 lb-ft of torque.


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  #21  
Old 08-25-2013, 10:33 AM
chunter0081 chunter0081 is offline
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Finally took advantage of the lifetime powertrain warranty on my '08 4.7L and had the dealership check out the 'ticking'. It took them 2-3 days of troubleshooting but finally isolated it to "internal failure in lifters" and "one broken rocker arm". Repair work was done, nose was GONE for about 2 months...and now it's insidiously sneaking back.
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  #22  
Old 08-27-2013, 11:21 PM
Jason Rosenzweig Jason Rosenzweig is offline
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I had a 4.7 in my old 1500 and had a similar tic or the drivers side on start up and it quieted up after a little time maybe a minute or so. Could possibly be an exhaust manifold leak that can cause a tic and make you think its an upper end noise. That is what mine ended up being.
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  #23  
Old 08-30-2013, 01:35 AM
arrownine1 arrownine1 is offline
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Default 4.7 ltr ticking noise.

I'm sure after a few people complain about this post I will be ejected from the forum, but hey! Hopefully it will get to a few of you before then. As I have read along hoping for some sign of competence, I find myself blown away by the number of completely useless suggestions about this issue. For the record, changing the oil will almost never fix a tick on an engine that goes away as it warms up. Oil breaks down under heat. I equate this as a modified form of the guy that gets out and checks his oil when his truck doesn't start because it's all he knows to do. Broken or loose rocker arms don't quiet down when an engine warms up people. They are broken all the time, not just when the engine is cold. And as for an exhaust manifold, they sound like an exhaust noise that goes away, not a tick that is described as, "My truck is gonna fall apart." For the record, the 4.7 is prone to exhaust manifold gasket leaks, but maybe I'll approach that subject later if I don't get ejected from the forums for being rude. Now that my rant is done, you get the meat and potatoes! I'm going to tell you what is causing this "Tick." I can tell you what to look for during disassembly and what is needed to fix it. I'm going to tell you the base cause of the problem. And I'm going to tell you why Dodge replaced that guys belt thinking it would help. The 4.7 ltr. engine is extremely prone to sludge build up. In early models, the manufacturer rated the engine for 5w30, but then switched to 5w20 to help curb the sludge issue. Sludge, regardless of how well cared for you think your engine is, is the underlying cause of your ticking noise. The 4.7 ltr. has three timing chains. One of the chains runs from the crank shaft gear to the cam gear on the left head, the other from the crank to the right head. These chains each have guides, and hydraulic tensioners. The hydraulic tensioners are where the tick is in your engine, and the rattle that it develops as the tick gets older is caused by chain slap on the guides. The ticking goes away, because as the engine runs for a few minutes, the tensioners pressure back up and the chain slap is minimized. (Not gone, just becomes less noticeable. You may still hear what sounds a bit like spark knock under heavy acceleration but with little if any apparent power loss.) The sludging in the engine usually partially blocks the strainer on the oil pick up tube and the oil ports in the block. And in some cases, varnish particles and sludge will build up on the screen inside the tensioner and tear it free from the component allowing the particulate to enter the tensioner. This reduces the amount of oil that flows through the ports to the tensioners at start up, causing them to go partially flat. The ticking and some of the rattle comes from the chain slap resulting from flat timing chain tensioners and from the tensioners themselves because they have locks on them that are designed to help prevent totally compression and the locks fail. (I know that's a run on sentence and my spelling sucks. It's midnight and it's what your gonna get at this point!) As the engine warms up, the tick diminishes, but its not because the truck is warm, it is because the tensioners pumped back up. The oil then flows through the tensioners and out of a port in the front and runs onto the tensioners, guides and chain. The diminished oil flow also causes little if any oil to lubricate these components and excessive wear of the these guides results. Over time, lack of lubrication, general wear and the chain slap causes chain stretch and further worsens the chain slap. So now you have a whole slew of issues that prevent replacement of any one single component from fixing this condition or by repairing it by changing just the tensioners that are now damaged from low oil flow at start up. To truly get rid of the tick, you must do the following. First of all, the oil pan must come off and the pick up tube inspected for sludge and varnish that is caught in the screen and preventing full flow through the pickup tube. Next the oil ports, in the engine block have to be cleared of sludge and full flow from both feed ports to the tensioners confirmed. I would then suggest checking the oil pump for any signs of cavitation and if they are present, replace it. Failing to do these things first will cause all the sludge, and varnish damage all the new timing components that will be installed next. Once these things are done, you can then replace the timing chains, all the gears, all guides, and all three tensioners. Failure to do any of these things will result in the tick coming back, sometimes almost immediately. On some of these that we initially repaired we used aftermarket timing kits, and while the components looked identical to the factory components, they did not hold up for more than about 15000 miles. Use of Mopar components has yielded trouble free repairs. Once the repairs are completed, start using 5w20 synthetic motor oil that meets the Dexos standard. (Now before you pinheads that love to try to show me how bright you are get started, I realize Dexos is a GM product and spec. But the Dexos standards have a lot to do with engine detergents that prevent sludging in addition to all the other standards for 5w20. Synthetics like Penzoil Platinum that meet the Dexos Standard will help prevent re-occurrence of your beloved tick by reducing the potential for sludge) And do not exceed 4500 miles on your oil change interval, even if you do change the filter between oil changes. The reason that the Dodge Dealer replaced the belt on one of you guys trucks is because about a year ago a TSB came down that said that accessory drive belts and/or tensioner can slap and make a ticking noise that sounds like it's coming from the timing cover area. Unfortunately, some Junior Power Ranger probably didn't read the rest of the bulletin and realize that the belt tensioner was supposed to be replaced with the belt and that he was supposed to confirm the belt slap as the source of the concern before repair. He cranked it up, it ticked. It ran for a minute and it pumped up the lifters. He pulled the belt and started it back up and amazingly no tick. Yep, that's the problem. (Only the problem was still there, but the chain tensioners were pumped up now so the only tick still around was the one in his head. Had he waited an hour then cranked it up.......Bam, no belt and tick is still there.) Now I'm gonna go all conspiracy theorist on yall. DODGE WILL NEVER FIX THIS. Here is what I think is going on. When you ask anyone, and I mean anyone at Dodge if they have problems with the 4.7 ltr the answer is an immediate NO! I have never met anyone that was able to get this problem fixed at a Dodge dealer and I have never met anyone that owned a vehicle with a 4.7 that had more than 100k on their truck that it didn't tick, unless I fixed it. And I have fixed a lot of these over the last three years because I now have a reputation as the shop that isn't afraid to work on them. I think Dodge knows there is a problem, but in admitting it, I think they are afraid of opening themselves up to legal action. More than one class action lawsuit has been filed over sludging issues on vehicles over the years, and there is a Quad Cab on every street corner from one coast to the other. That's a lot of liability to assume by not keeping your mouth shut and the damage to your reputation as a truck manufacturer would be immeasurable. Anyway, if you opt to fix this yourselves you will need a set of Torx Sockets, E-Torx Sockets and special tool OTC-522902. (Its about $50.00 and as the part number implies, it's made by OTC.) I would also suggest you have an assortment of zip ties and an ton of patience.

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  #24  
Old 09-03-2013, 06:17 AM
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yup you r right on with the sludge build up.just ripped mine down cuz of blown head gasket
heads were badly warped.as for the timing chain adjusters they sure could of come up with something better.sorry for the old post.
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  #25  
Old 09-17-2013, 05:30 PM
WHITEHORSE1503 WHITEHORSE1503 is offline
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Default A suggestion

I'll tell ya what. I have almost 150K miles on my 4.7 ram. I'm no professional but since i bought my truck when it had 63K miles every oil change i dump on quart of lucas oil stabilizer in. As soon as i did that and ran it for a bit i noticed a change in how well it ran. That lucas is good stuff, my truck is living proof. I use lucas in all my fluids that can take lucas products of course. The idea behind lucas oil stabilizer is to make your oil stick to your cylinder walls so you don't dry start after sitting a while. It improves more than that as well. It may help resolve your ticking noise. Look it up. It's extra money, but well worth it. I drop my oil every 3k miles no matter what. Give it a shot on your next oil change. And i don't use synthetic in my truck. Just Pennzoil 5w30 and a quart of lucas. Some would say it's like magic
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  #26  
Old 09-24-2013, 07:36 AM
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If sludge build-up is a problem in our 4.7's,what about doing some of the old school tricks for diminishing sludge build-up.
There's 2 that come to mind,but unless your over 45 you probably haven't heard of either.
One is to dump a quart of Diesal fuel into the crankcase while the motor is warm,let it run on a high idle for 15/20 minutes,then do your oil change.
The other follows the same procedure,but uses a quart of Type F automatic transmission fluid instead of diesal.
Both are high detergent and were common tricks years ago.
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  #27  
Old 10-19-2013, 07:36 PM
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02bluebertha 02bluebertha is offline
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i got the same issue only for the first few minutes after it starts would the synthetic more than likely fix this??? thanks fellos
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  #28  
Old 10-20-2013, 08:44 AM
Hornet Hornet is offline
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My 13 ticks for a few seconds on start-up,and is running Redline synthetic.
You could try switching to a synthetic oil,it might make a differance,but it might not either
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  #29  
Old 10-27-2013, 12:25 AM
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Im about to install some HO cams in my truck( i may have another set to let go of), and while im in there im going to replace all lash adjusters. Got a great deal on ebay for oem lash adjusters. I have a 4.7 HO im parting out and when i pulled the cams i checked the lash adjusters and they were super stiff, engine had 150k when pulled.
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  #30  
Old 11-04-2013, 05:22 PM
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2012 ram 11,000 miles also have the tick and everyone says its a hemi! lol
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