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  #1  
Old 02-05-2010, 01:52 PM
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Default 3.9/5.2/5.9 Intake Removal & Installation

INTAKE MANIFOLD

REMOVAL
  1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
  2. Drain the cooling system (Refer toCooling System for the proper procedures)
  3. Remove the generator.
  4. Remove the air cleaner.
  5. Perform the Fuel System Pressure release procedure (Refer to Fuel System) Disconnect the fuel lines.
  6. Disconnect the accelerator linkage and if so equipped, the speed control and transmission kickdown cables.
  7. Remove the return spring.
  8. Remove the distributor cap and wires.
  9. Disconnect the coil wires.
  10. Disconnect the heat indicator sending unit wire.
  11. Disconnect the heater hoses and bypass hose.
  12. Remove the closed crankcase ventilation and evaporation control systems.
  13. Remove intake manifold bolts.
  14. Lift the intake manifold and throttle body out of the engine compartment as an assembly.
  15. Remove and discard the flange side gaskets and the front and rear cross-over gaskets.
  16. Remove the throttle body bolts and lift the throttle body off the intake manifold Throttle Body Assembly Discard the gasket
  17. Remove the plenum pan as follows:
    1. Turn the intake manifold upside down. Support the manifold.
    2. Remove the bolts and lift the pan off the manifold. Discard the gasket.
INSTALLATION
  1. Install the plenum pan, if removed, as follows:
    1. Turn the intake manifold upside down. Support the manifold.
    2. Place a new plenum pan gasket onto the seal rail of the intake manifold. Position the pan over the gasket. Align all the gasket and pan holes with the intake manifold.
    3. Hand start all bolts.
    4. Tighten the bolts, in sequence Plenum Pan Bolt Tightening Sequence , as follows:
      • Step 1 - Tighten bolts to 2.7 Nm (24 in. lbs.) torque.
      • Step 2 - Tighten bolts to 5.4 Nm (48 in. lbs.) torque.
      • Step 3 - Tighten bolts to 9.5 Nm (84 in. lbs.) torque.
      • Step 4 - Check that all bolts are tighten to 9.5 Nm (84 in. lbs.) torque
  2. Using a new gasket, install the throttle body onto the intake manifold. Tighten the bolts to 23 Nm (200 in. lbs.) torque.
  3. Place the 4 plastic locator dowels into the holes in the block Cross-Over Gaskets and Locator Dowels
  4. Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, to the four corner joints. An excessive amount of sealant is not required to ensure a leak proof seal. However, an excessive amount of sealant may reduce the effectiveness of the flange gasket. The sealant should be slightly higher than the cross-over gaskets, approximately 5 mm (0.2 in)
  5. Install the front and rear cross-over gaskets onto the dowels Cross-Over Gaskets and Locator Dowels
  6. Install the flange gaskets. Ensure that the vertical port alignment tab is resting on the deck face of the block. Also the horizontal alignment tabs must be in position with the mating cylinder head gasket tabs Intake Manifold Flange Gasket Alignment The words MANIFOLD SIDE should be visible on the center of each flange gasket
  7. Carefully lower intake manifold into position on the cylinder block and cylinder heads. Use the alignment dowels in the cross-over gaskets to position the intake manifold. After intake manifold is in place, inspect to make sure seals are in place.
  8. Install the intake manifold bolts and tighten as follows Intake Manifold Bolt Tightening Sequence - V-8 :
    • Step 1 - Tighten bolts 1 through 4, in sequence, to 8 Nm (72 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten in alternating steps 1.4 Nm (12 in. lbs.) torque at a time.
    • Step 2 - Tighten bolts 5 through 12, in sequence, to 8 Nm (72 in. lbs.) torque.
    • Step 3 - Check that all bolts are tighten to 8 Nm (72 in. lbs.) torque.
    • Step 4 - Tighten all bolts, in sequence, to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.) torque.
    • Step 5 - Check that all bolts are tighten to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.) torque
  9. Install closed crankcase ventilation and evaporation control systems.
  10. Connect the coil wires.
  11. Connect the heat indicator sending unit wire.
  12. Connect the heater hoses and bypass hose.
  13. Install distributor cap and wires.
  14. Hook up the return spring.
  15. Connect the accelerator linkage and if so equipped, the speed control and transmission kickdown cables.
  16. Install the fuel lines.
  17. Install the generator and drive belt. Tighten generator mounting bolt to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
  18. Install the air cleaner.
  19. Fill cooling system (Refer toCooling System for the proper procedure)
  20. Connect the negative cable to the battery.





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  #2  
Old 02-05-2010, 03:24 PM
wvcoolvinilla wvcoolvinilla is offline
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hey randy I had the dealership do mine..back in the day.. is there an aftermarket gasket that is not composit??
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Old 02-05-2010, 04:27 PM
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I don't know for sure. When this problem first reared its head, Fel-Pro made a different kind of gasket for this application but I don't know if it went into production.
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Old 03-07-2011, 08:10 PM
dso18106 dso18106 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wvcoolvinilla View Post
hey randy I had the dealership do mine..back in the day.. is there an aftermarket gasket that is not composit??
how much did it run to have the dealer change it?
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Old 03-10-2011, 08:08 PM
bluerose2001 bluerose2001 is offline
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Any special instructions for the Diesel 5.9? We are having some problems with just a Haynes manual. How do you get the push rods out of the back 2? That is where my rocker arm bolt broke and we are removing the intake manifold in order to get the bolt out and check on the condition of the "heads"
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:23 PM
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The #5 cylinder exhaust and the #6 cylinder intake and exhaust push rods are removed by lifting them up and through the provided cowl panel access holes. Remove the rubber plugs to expose these relief holes.
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:03 PM
skypig skypig is offline
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I have a 5.2 with high oil consumption when driving highway mainly. Started rather abruptly a few years ago. I asked local shop about it and they are aware of the intake issue, but not sure how well they tested for vacuum. They told me I do not have internal vacuum leak. I do not have a gage so I tried to use a piece of thin plastic paper snug over the pcv hole while holding the pcv valve bottom with my thumb. I did not feel any strong suction nor pressure. Is this something I will definitely need to hook up a gage as described in earlier post or should I be able to tell without one?
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