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HID Information, How-To's and FAQ

34K views 39 replies 30 participants last post by  PdPuNOme 
#1 ·
There are so many posts here with good information that it's time to capture them here in a single thread.

We had started this section once before but due to a technical glitch (I'm not technical, therefore a glitch occurred :doh:) we get to start over.

So if you find some relevant information, a How-To or have some insight on Frequently Asked Questions and their answers, PM me a link to what you have found here or one you've previously posted. And if you are creating some information on HID's, let me know.

This thread is closed to posting.
 
#4 ·
hi i recently bought an hid kit and installed it on my 2006 dodge ram . my hi beams work but my low beams flicker and then go off. while my trucks low beam is on my fog lights work but no hid low beams,also if i go to turn off my fogs i have no lights on low beam at all . what can i do to fix this issue ?
 
#6 ·
#7 ·
Does anybody have the wiring diagram , to wire in the relay for Hid's ?
 
#8 ·
Has anybody bought from HID Canada.com, I sure like their "straight-forward" and practical approach to their upgrade kits.
 
#9 ·
Have ? 4th gen 1500 with quad headlight set up. I know with my journey i had i need warning cancellers to stop the flickering problem on both sides am i going to have to do the same with my truck for lows and fogs? Would like to know before purchasing so i have everything ready for install day. Its a 2012 by the way
 
#10 ·
A question for the Canadian dudes that converted to HID's. I have the dual, not the quad headlight setup, my DRL's are low voltage that run off the highbeam, I am looking at Retro's marimoto elite conversion. Has anyone converted with the dual headlights? How hard would the bi-xenon setup be?
 
#13 ·
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=237 (or whatever kit you plan on using, just make sure it's bi-xenon)
and then:
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=237 so we can switch to highs and so we don't get warnings on the dash.

For running lights, I think I'm going to run angel eyes in the shrouds, and wire it up using the low beam off the OEM harness. They will then be on with the lower voltage for our DRL and also when we are in low beam when the lights are actually on. Provided that the lower voltage will be enough to light them up... If not then it will be LEDs, I will probably put a strip in somewhere and call it a day.

Pretty sure this set up will work, but I've only been really researching it this morning... Read ALL of this and it very clearly explains pretty much everything. Best description I've read, very simple but informative. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/trs_tech.php

Hopefully if this is wrong someone will correct it, I'm self edumicated when it comes to this stuff, but I can usually pull it off!
 
#15 ·
Has anyone had any problems with the ddm tuning, with the error eliminator box?? I had ddm on my old truck with no problems hence why I want to go back to them, I just hear of a lot of problems with peoples hids on here due to the computer programming these trucks are under. I would prefer not to pay retro fit price but if I have to I will.
 
#17 ·
2013 Projector flickering low beams

Hey everyone, here's my issue.


I have a 2013 Dodge Ram Sport Crew cab 4x4 and i bought VVME.com HID kit 35 watt xexon's with relays for both sets of HID's.

THe fogs work great no issues...

The Low beams work if just the accessory power is on, but once i start the engine the hid's flicker and turn off and the relay is buzzing like crazy. Why is it that it works fine with the motor off??

I have read a lot on this issue and i guess i need a capacitor for both of the projector low beams, but i want to find out close by in michigan or ontario canada. Does anyone know where i can set a set of "capacitors" and maybe a more heavy duty relay too??

Do all the 2013's have this issue??? I've installed a few kits before from VVME.com and they are great with no issues, i had them in my srt-4 neon for 4 years with no issues ever and i installed them in my buddies 2013 dodge ram express (non projector style) and his worked fine without capacitors too, so im really lost on this issue......

please help asap...
 
#35 ·
HID issue - works with engine off, not while on.

Hey everyone, here's my issue.


I have a 2013 Dodge Ram Sport Crew cab 4x4 and i bought VVME.com HID kit 35 watt xexon's with relays for both sets of HID's.

THe fogs work great no issues...

The Low beams work if just the accessory power is on, but once i start the engine the hid's flicker and turn off and the relay is buzzing like crazy. Why is it that it works fine with the motor off??

I have read a lot on this issue and i guess i need a capacitor for both of the projector low beams, but i want to find out close by in michigan or ontario canada. Does anyone know where i can set a set of "capacitors" and maybe a more heavy duty relay too??

Do all the 2013's have this issue??? I've installed a few kits before from VVME.com and they are great with no issues, i had them in my srt-4 neon for 4 years with no issues ever and i installed them in my buddies 2013 dodge ram express (non projector style) and his worked fine without capacitors too, so im really lost on this issue......

please help asap...
I am having the same issue. I have everything wired up, I have a bi-xenon controller harness to eliminate the Canbus errors. The low beams come on when the ignition is not on. But flash 3 times and go out when the engine is started. Also, if I flash turn on high beams it flashes 3 times and goes out.

My one consideration is do I have the wiring correct that goes into the stock light connector to provide the high/low beam control. Does anyone have the wiring diagram for a 2007 Ram 1500 SLT extended cab? Or do you have other ideas about this issue? S
I've read the discussions, but no resolution. Most presume that the error cancelling harness isn't installed.
 
#18 ·
#19 ·
So i went in last night and did the install on my projector headlights with the low beam conversion. I installed everything correctly, the HALO'S and LED'S to the parking lamp wires and the 9006 harness into the projector. no flickering at all.

My only issue is when i turn my high beams on the HID low beams will not turn off like there suppose too, normal?

Another question, i wired my HALO'S and LED'S into my parking light wires because i have the quad lamp lights with the DRL's and when i do the remote start everything lights up but when my lights are turned off and the DRL's are running the HALO's and LED's wont light
 
#20 ·
I am hoping someone can clear this up... I have a 2013 ram 1500 Big Horn, Quad lamps

At first I was going to install 6000k 35w AC hids for my lows and fogs with error eliminator or just get the canbus ballasts. A buddy of mine told me to use the relay harness for em so I dont fry my computer if anything is defective. I am confused and cannot find the answer I am looking for anywhere. Seeing how the electrical system in these trucks are so sensitive, I wanna do it right the first time. Getting to the point, how am I supposed to install these properly?

All help is greatly appreciated!
 
#21 ·
I have a 2010 Laramie with quad lights and Put 55w 8000k Hids in my Hi, Low, and fogs. It was a nightmare. When I bought the kits I hadn't read up on it before hand. I had the kits, then I had to get cancellers for the error codes, then I had to order resistors and put them inline as well. From what I have read if you use the canbus ballasts it is supposed to eliminate all the issues and error codes. Maybe someone else has used them and can shed more light. I didn't have to do anything special with the fog lights, because the computer doesn't monitor those, but I had to add a ground wire to each of my fog lamp harness' to get rid of annoying feed back in my stereo.
 
#22 ·
It seems to me that relays are essential to the HIDs so I went and ordered 6000k 35w kits from ddm tuning with the relays. I know I dont need them for fogs but better to have the added protection. I just need to install them but I read today that some guys still have problems with the relays (which I thought was to eliminate all the problems) and others are using this system flawlessly. Some say they have flickering which I think would mean there needs to be a capacitor or resistor for the factory harness to stop this. I am only using low beams and fogs. Will I encounter problems with my low beams with only relays? DDM sent me slim ballasts. All info is much appreciated!
 
#25 ·
I tested out the relay harness for the fog lights and it works like a charm! I didnt get a chance to test the lows tho. Taking off the grille and all in -30 with wind chill isnt such a great idea, only to test it out and put everything back together. I will try it asap and let you know how it goes. Or unless someone beat me to it.
 
#26 ·
Question

I just ordered a set of 2014 Projector headlights for my 2010. I ordered the projector adaptor from RetroShop also. So, I am thinking of getting an HID kit also. What is the cheapest, but decent quality kit you guys know of? Also, from my reading, I am assuming I need a relay for the HID kit right, even though I have ordered the projector adapter???
 
#30 ·
55W offers no real benefit other than annoying other drivers, possibly damaging your bowl, and causing an excessive amount of foreground lighting. Lot of discussion on hidplanet backed by science. The 35W work good in the OEM projectors, Make sure you aim them properly. I'd go with 4500K but that's just me. To be honest even at 35w there is too much foreground because of the halogen bowl but the highbeams work awesome :D Long term look into an FXR swap :)


So I have dual headlights 2014 what kit should I look into that doesn't break the bank but is also of good quality.
None, until you get rid of your reflector housings by either retrofitting in a proper HID projector, or at the bare minimum upgrade to TYC or OEM Sport/Laramie projectors. Retrofit of a Mini D2S could be done in an afternoon with basic tools into your dual housing, see my build thread. If you wanna paint them it'll take ya longer. At which point I'd recommend a morimoto D2S.
 
#32 · (Edited)
theres already projectors in the housing...why couldn't i just use those. I think they are the same housings that are on the sport.

Your first post said you had "Dual headlights" I'm sorry I was confused. You have the projectors which are not the same thing as dual headlights as us dodge guys tend to call them.

Dual headlights came on the ST's and as far as I know they stopped making them in 2013? Standard equipment is now the quad lights which are no better at handling an HID, but are better performers than the "dual" that I speak of.

If you already have the projectors (black, like the sport ones)...Then by all means throw an HID kit in there. Just make sure you aim them down, go with 35W and my personal preference is 4300-4500K (white) and factory xenon color for OEM.

theretrofitsource has a 2014 specific kit you could buy, or you could get DDM tuning canbus ballasts which should be plug and play also. I'm running the cheap DDM in mine with a canbus adapter I bought on ebay but I have a 2010 and it's much less picky. I found the 9006 bulbs that DDM supplied gave a bad cutoff, didn't fit properly without trimming, and blue light however. I switched these out for Morimoto XB 9011 bulbs from theretrofitsource.

http://www.amazon.ca/Error-Warning-Canceller-Capacitor-Decoder/dp/B00E38EJ20

IMO, the ddm with integrated canbus error cancellation is good choice simply because it's less wiring and plug and play.

You could also go with morimoto XB35 ballst and these guys
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/c...ndalone-canbus-wire-harness.html#.VsyvCPkrK00

Or the ones off Amazon i posted. They do the same thing.

You got some options. Let me know if you wanna know more. Basically you get what you pay for.
 
#34 ·
I got my DDM ballast, ignitor, and the error cancellor behind the dustcap (some puzzle work required....like 15 attempts...), but that's because the cheapo error cancellor is bulky/big. I probably could have trimmed off some of the material but I didn't have a dremel. No drilling/cutitng required. If you got a standalone canbus ballast, it probably drops right in there super easy.

I since wired the cancellor outside of the housing as part of my relay system so the ballast+ignitor goes in there super easy now. I only had to add relays because my truck originally came equipped with duals and I wanted the bi-halogen function of the projector.
 
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