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What transmission do I have? 84 dodge

20K views 28 replies 5 participants last post by  larryldavis213 
#1 ·
Dumb question but what transmission came standard in a 1984 dodge W250 power ram with a 5.2l 318. I know it doesn't have OD that wasn't a feature yet, I just need to know specifically what type of tranny I have
 
#2 ·
I think in 1984 Ram still used the 3 speed Torque Flite.
 
#6 ·
Awesome thanks again Gen1dak, you've been extremely helpful with all my questions.

And in your opinion how strong or how good is the 727 Torqueflite? You already know I want to build up a 360 Magnum which is going to more than double the power of my 318, will the 727 hold up to that kind of power? Probably another dumb question I know

When I take out the 318 and before I add the 360 the plan is to take it to the shop to basically refurbish, is there anything I should get or buy new of for the tranny when they refurbish it? I just don't want the tranny to go out for whatever reason down the road from now

(The truck isn't going to be rode rough, 98% of the time it's going to be a daily driver going to school and work, just that other 2% I don't want something to give out)
 
#7 ·
I'd get a B&M TransPak installed. Had on in my 727 in a '69 Charger. Perfection.
TransGo also offers a 3-stage kit. You'd want Stage 1 for Heavy Duty, Stage 2 shifts a little firmer, and is better suited for street/strip. You may need to replace some hard parts if there's damage (scored drums etc), but that'll have to wait til it's torn down and thy can be inspected. Add an external transmission cooler to run in-line with your stock radiator cooler for added protection. The later model governors can suffer deformation over time, may need replacing. You can get an upgraded unit that won't deform. Naturally, it's a good time to replace the torque converter. Feast your eyes on the goodies with explanations as to their purpose:

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/727transmission.htm

You can go nuts, but you don't have to. Just get good parts, not the cheapest things out there.

With minor differences, the 727 design has been behind your 318and all the way to the 426 Max Wedge, Hemi, 440 Six Pack (in big block bellhousing version, as well as Chrysler's hottest smallblocks (meaning the legendary 340 Magnum-so hot it got the nickname "Baby Hemi" because it ran so hard, despite not being a Hemi design). It'll take anything that 360 Magnum can dish out.
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
When you say you'll get the flexplate along with the 360 Magnum, do you mean the flexplate that is attached to the 360 Magnum from the factory, or the weighted one from B&M? If you want to get the converter you linked to, you could just get them to put the balance weight on the converter when you order.
On cam/converter match, you have pretty loose limits there with any decent street cam you choose. In that it's in a heavy truck and not a race car, and no lock-up, I'd limit stall to 2400rpm, and definitely have that external cooler installed. What year is that 360 Magnum?
 
#12 ·
Sorry about the late response, didn't realize it made a second page and I kept waiting for a reply, I don't have the 360 magnum yet but I'm going to try to get as new of one as possible, it'll probably be a late 90s one. I was told to get the factory flexplate along with the 360, and then just get a non-balanced converter

This video shows almost exactly what I'm wanting to do
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OObYGOGsDYg
And I already have an external cooler, but I'll upgrade it once I swap motors
 
#13 ·
Hmmm. I'm not sure how much of an issue that'll be. From '96 up, they Magnums have a symmetrical bolt pattern between the torque converter and the flexplate. Prior to that, the bolt pattern was assymetrical. Meaning one bolt was slightly off from the other three.......I have no idea why. Anyway, all prior Torqueflites have this as well. Now, you can take the symmetrical flexplate and oval out one of the bolt holes to remedy this.....not my pref, but it works with the assymetrical bolt pattern on 727 converters. Alternately, you can make sure you order your non-lockup converter to match the symmetrical bolt pattern of your late 90's flexplate. That will work.
 
#14 ·
http://www.magnumswap.com/automatic-transmission-details/

I think this site also shows what you're talking about, they used a 99 magnum though

I'll be getting one prior to '96
But if I spend 100 dollars more I can get one that's newer
Should I just spend the extra hundred dollars and get a newer model?

and just to clarify 100%, I am going to get the flexplate with the engine, and when I order my converter I need to make sure it's a non balanced, non-lockup torque converter for a 727 torqueflite, right?

To quote the website I sent you:
"The 5.9 Magnum uses a weighted flexplate and a neutral-balanced converter from the factory. To make life simple, be sure to get the flexplate with your engine. With the weighted flexplate, simply use a neutral balanced converter, these are readily available for most transmissions. We recommend this method."

That part sounds pretty simple, now about matching stall speed, like you said this isn't for a street car or anything, I just want to get what's best for it. So a lower stall speed, you said to limit it at 2400 rpm, when I get the torque converter should I also get that to match around 2400?

http://www.tciauto.com/tc/727-maximizertm-towing-torque-converter-67-81html/

This converter looks great for what applications I'm looking for, but it doesn't say if it's a neutral balanced converter

And thanks again for helping clarify things, I'm reading a lot about this swap but still trying to make sense of everything
 
#15 ·
Nope. That's where it gets a little dicey. The website states the 5.9 Magnum used a weighted flexplate. That's only partly true. In 1996, when they went to the symmetrical bolt pattern, THAT'S WHEN they started putting the weight on the flexplate. Earlier models still used weight on the torque converter, okay? Seems easy enough, but you can't just use a non-lockup balanced converter for the 360LA, because the Magnum used a few grams less weight that the 360LA. And since the 360 Magnum was never paired with a non-lockup A518, you begin to feel like you're doing the tire test on an obstacle course. Do-able, as long as you get the details right.

Keep in mind, Chrysler uses the newer symmetrical setup on all pre-'96 models on warranty work. As long as the later flexplate AND matching converter are used as a pair, it retrofits to the earlier models, so the question is this: Does your engine source supply all versions with the newer flexplate, or not? Chances are, they're using the newer weighted, symmetrical flexplate. You need to know this before ordering the converter.
On the TCI, not many details there (why does it specify 67-81?), but I imagine you'd need to specify your balance requirements when ordering, so thats a good thing. Yeah, for street duty, 2400rpm is a really solid number to work with on the converter. Even my 318LA-powered Shelby Dakota with 3.90 gears had a factory 2,000rpm stall (if it would've had a 318 Magnum, 2400 would've been awesome), so a 360 Magnum would really like that stall number. Back when the 727 was all there was, 2400rpm was the best overall setup. B&M Holeshot was the hot snot, and it stalled around 2400. Any good street cam, from the stock 360 Magnum to RV grinds, all the way to lumpy Extreme Energy (400hp at 6,000rpm) grinds from CompCams (for example) will work well with that stall speed. 2400rpm stall lets the engine get into the torque curve before really clamping down, and that's what you want. You see newer setups with 2600-3000 rpm stall, but they have a lockup function....basically the best of both worlds, but on your setup, 2400 is about the best you can choose. You won't be disappointed.
 
#16 ·
Alright thanks! I think I'll spend a little more and get a newer magnum to make sure it has the weighted flexplate so I can just purchase a neutral balanced converter, I'll just make sure when I order it to specify what year flexplate I'm going to attach it too

Now about wiring, if I'm going to be using a mechanical fuel pump and making it carbed like my 318, will there be much of an issue with wiring everything up? And what about computer chips for the engine, something I know very little about and should read into

And sorry for asking so many questions
 
#17 ·
Nah, not an issue. As a carb'd unit, it'll be virtually identical at a glance to the stock setup (aside from changes you make, like a 4V carb). All your stock wiring will be right at home. No need for computers or chips. Even the stock distributor works. You may need a couple flat washers to take up any slack on the engine mount bolts. Easy enough to see when you're swapping them to the new block. It's hands-down one of the easiest engine swaps you'll do.
 
#19 ·
Hey Gen1dak, sorry to keep bothering you, but you're the most knowledgeable person I've talked to about this swap. I just want to make sure I understand this completely

An earlier model magnum will cost me $350 at my junkyard, a later model will cost $450-550. So if I get an earlier model without the weighted flexplate, will this work:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/B-M-10242-SFI-Flexplate-for-Chrysler-93-99-360-w-TF727-/121190284488?_trksid=p2054897.l5667

Along with a neutral balanced non-lockup torque converter for an A727 torqueflite
 
#20 ·
Yep. The B&M 10242 is the one for all 5.9 Magnum/727 combos. One perk is the stronger aftermarket design, though the stockers have never been known as weaklings. Looks like it'll wind up costing you no matter which way you go, but the B&M unit will be more "flex"-ible in application. Anyway, the 10242 with a neutral balance converter is correct.

In deference to other members, I'm hardly an expert. If someone is onboard and hitting the points, no reason for me to jump in. I suspect that's often the case with others as well.

On that eBay listing, make SURE you're getting the right model. I know sellers often use stock photos, but the correct one should look like this:

http://www.bmracing.com/products/10...93-to-1999-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-w-360-cid/

It'll have a bite taken out of one side. The plate will only bolt on one way, and that bite is part of the external balance.
 
#21 ·
Hey Gen, just an update I finally bought the engine, a 360 magnum sourced from a '99 durango, now i'm just saving up to rebuild it. I really need to figure out what heads I should go with, I know there's several options for me to choose from, if you could read my other post and respond to which heads you would personally go with?
http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?p=1439375#post1439375

Right now I'm leaning towards Hughes Indy MaX heads
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?browse=category&level0=Qi0gU21hbGwgQmxvY2sgRG9kZ2UgTWFnbnVt&level1=Q3lsaW5kZXIgSGVhZHM=&level2=SXJvbg==&searchmode=partnumber&page=1
 
#22 ·
Tough decision at a glance. It's a strange thing to have so many choices. There was a time when Mopar guys were lucky to even have a 2 or 3 intakes to choose from. Forget aftermarket heads. The problem with pre-assembled stuff is gonna be more an issue with re-mans, not new performance stuff. How much cam are you looking at going with? What are your performance goals? I tend to not consider aluuminum heads unless there a compression bump in the works. Since aluminum dissipates heat several times faster than iron, you can usually get away with a point or so of increased compression, all else being equal. Yes, they're lighter, but in a truck is that really the issue? Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't turn them down, but given the costs, the money saved on aluminum can be channeled into better parts and more port work on cast iron heads.
 
#23 ·
Hey Gen, really need your help because I know nothing about transmissions. I literally just bought the heads and cam today from hughes engines, I went with these if you're curious: http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?browse=category&level0=Qi0gU21hbGwgQmxvY2sgRG9kZ2UgTWFnbnVt&level1=Q3lsaW5kZXIgSGVhZHM=&level2=SXJvbg==&partid=25743
With the 1110 spring kit and a custom ground cam running 214/218 lsa with the extended snout to run a mechanical fuel pump

But for the transmission, I'm going to take my 727 in to get rebuilt and I want to buy the kit for them to install, I was looking at the website you showed me and does this have everything I'll need?: It's the combo kit if the picture for some reason doesn't work

Here's the website: http://www.transmissioncenter.net/727transmission.htm
Was there anything else I should get to rebuild it off of this website?

I saw the B&M kit you got off summit, but I was also thinking about ordering a torque converter off this website as well (unless I can find a better one somewhere else), which I also need your help on.

I'm going to get a neutral balanced/ non lock up converter to run a weighted flexplate along with the weighted harmonic dampener, but for the torque converter, what stall should I go with? It's going to be a daily driver, I'll be using it for school and work, The engine I'm figuring will have around 400 hp if not more, (hot daily driver =]) but you said nothing more than 2400 stall, so would something around 2200 be best? or

Also for the flexplate, I'm thinking about just getting a new one so the holes match up correctly, This flexplate will work right?: http://www.bmracing.com/products/10242-chrysler-sfi-flexplate-6-bolt-crank-for-tf-a727-1993-to-1999-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-w-360-cid/

That's everything I have to ask for now, you've been a tremendous help, and look forward to pictures of the build when I get it going next year
 
#24 ·
Flex plate looks good. Rebuild kit looks good. Keep in mind if you have any damaged hard parts like a drum, that'll be extra. One thing I don't think I'd go with is that 5.0 kickdown lever. That's a serious piece. Something around 3.8 to 4.2 would be better in a daily driver. Stall speed isn't exact. A given converter will stall at different speeds depending on engine power, vehicle weight, and gearing. So, keep the advertised stall below 2400, but at least 2000.
 
#25 ·
Thank you so much
Actually was reading up about repair shops because usually we do it ourselves, and a lot of places wont let you give them the parts, or if you do they won't be covered by a warranty so I'm kind of unsure what to do. I don't want a repair shop to use cheaper parts that only last until the warranty is expired, that was the whole reason I wanted to buy the rebuild kit. I know not every place will do that but I've heard of some places that do rip you off
 
#26 ·
Hey Gen1dak, just had a question I can't seem to find the answer to.
I bought a harmonic damper to run the v-belt setup on my 360 magnum rather than the serpentine belt setup.
I bought this:
http://www.professional-products.com/Home-Harmonic-Dampers-Powerforce-Street-Dampers-MOPAR/7-25-318-340-360-Chrysler-All-Harmonic-Damper-p424.html
Now when I opened it and read through the instructions, the book only says the weights for the 360 are for years 1971-1992 and 1993-1997
And my magnum 360 is a 1999.
Am I missing something here? or will this damper work for my 1999 360 magnum sourced from a dodge durango if it matters
 
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