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Crunched a FW bearing

2K views 20 replies 11 participants last post by  battlerattle 
#1 · (Edited)
Driving home the other night, a terrible sound started up front - it sounded like the brake had gone south.

So, I stopped, called for a tow and had it hauled over to the shop.

Turns out the front left wheel bearing was gone....all of a sudden, too. I had the front end aligned just a couple of months ago and all was good, the dealer checks everything during oil changes (hoping to talk me into a $79 "E-brake service" or some nonsense)..a month ago there was nothing noted.

The shop showed me a video they shot before they took the wheel off. The entire wheel assembly could be moved in and out a foot at the front of the tire. I've asked for him to send it to me, when he does I may post it.

I am very, very happy I spent the money on my extended warranty when I bought this truck. With the wheel bearing and everything else that has gone wrong on this truck I have recouped the money it cost me.

And I'm just half way through the warranty period. No wonder Chrysler/Dodge went bankrupt.
 
#2 ·
Front wheel bearings fail on all brand pickups, not just Ram. I see at least as many Ford and GM trucks at my mechanics for wheel bearing replacements. In 210,000 miles, all that I replaced on my Ram= 1 U- Joint, 1 set of brake pads, other than normal wear items, tires, plugs, lubes. They went bankrupt because Mercedes took all the cash out of the company and dumped em without even a kiss.:smiledown:
 
#6 ·
They went bankrupt because Mercedes took all the cash out of the company and dumped em without even a kiss.:smiledown:
Man the Benz "partnership" (more like subserviation) was bad. The only good thing to come of it was the new GJC/Durango architecture
 
#7 ·
If you can find them, source an SKF Brand hub bearing assembly. They seem to be better quality than other brands. They have more bearing surface. Timken used be a good brand, but seemed to have gone down hill. Since the dealer is doing the repair, I would ask them about getting an SKF brand part instead of a Mopar part. On my old 1998 Dodge Cummins 2500 4x4, I could change both sides in about a half hour after much practice. My truck was lifted, running 36.0" tires. The SKF Brand hubs seemed to last the longest. Make sure the dealer uses liberal amounts of anti-sieze on everything when they reassemble. It states that in the factory service manual, but there is no anti-seize on anything from the factory. Go figure. I would change the other side as well. If one side went, the other is sure follow, and you will be doing it all over again. -Glen
 
#9 ·
Yeah thank God the trucks are built and sold by Fiat!!! Not really

As far as their cars go given the choice between a Fiat and Yugo, that a tough call.
What is the point of this post? Its irrelevant to the thread, and the OP has a 2010 which was built before Fiat was in the picture.

The trucks are still built in the same plants they always have been.
 
#11 ·
Both of mine were gone at 65k. Almost went with non Mopar parts but my dad is now a Service Manager at a big Chrysler store so the pricing was unbeatable.

I find it annoying that we use bearing assemblies like this. I like good old grease and castle nuts. Basically an unlimited service life as long as the grease is changed out when needed.

My 67 to my knowledge still has the factory installed wheel bearings 120k miles and over 48 years later. My new 5 year old truck with 65k miles needed both fully replaced ......

I would much rather pull apart the bearing assemblies to re pack at each brake job rather than blow 500 bucks on more junk to hang back on the thing.
 
#17 · (Edited)
If the hubs are locked in I can still shift on the fly. With the hubs unlocked I no longer turn the axle shafts, ring and pinion, drive shaft, and transfer case output. I have picked up close to 2 mpg with my Hemi 2500, and had to re-learn how to drive it in 2-wheel drive as it feels like I did a performance brake upgrade! As I do not have the centrifugal force applied to the front wheels.

On dry pavement/warm weather I run the hubs unlocked. If the conditions are bad or I'm going off -road I lock the hubs in before I leave home or turn into an area that I might possibly need 4wd I lock the in the hubs.

If you only want to do the upgrade bearings you should be able to find "slugs" similar to what the old full-time 4wd's ran.

I did put photos of the swap into the gallery of the install. Can't figure out how to make a direct link but, the photos were posted Tue April 22, 2014 if you want to do a search.
 
#20 ·
Just repack the wheel bearing every 35,000 miles.

Only downside is the cost, around $1,500, I went with Spyntec. Not the cheapest but, had features that I liked over others. I did not do it for the fuel mileage, would take a long time to pay it off, did it because I did get stranded in my last truck when I had a wheel bearing go out.
 
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