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Rough Country Lift Setup Thread PICS

223K views 565 replies 134 participants last post by  ginandtonic 
#1 · (Edited)
I consistently see almost everyday a new thread of people asking for pictures of Rough Country Lifts on the 2009-2012 Rams with tire size, wheels, bilsteins etc. I know there are a lot of lift threads out there but it can be annoying having to search multiple threads to find a RCX lift on bilsteins. I thought it would be a good idea to start a thread with Rough Country Lifts. Hopefully this will help others wondering what size tires, bilsteins, etc to go with.

Please include:
Year/Model
Lift Size
Bilstein: Yes-Size/No
Body Lift: Yes-Size/No
Tire Size
Wheel Size
Pros/Cons
Any other suspension add-ons
 
#410 ·
I ran that way for 2 weeks before I told my gear... 'I don't care what you have to do to figure out this front carrier, but I need 4.56'

Honestly speaking and truthfully speaking.... Your truck will be a dog! There is a noticeable lag from stop to go and forget about hills or upward incline drives, your truck will be hunting for gears.
If you have 3.55, stick with 35's at max and get a tuner (which we provide)
35's still look good on a 6" lift with nothing else.
 
#414 ·
Im running 37's with 355's currently and theres a noticeable lag from dead stop but the truck still has plenty of power and feels fine under normal driving and acceleration. I do also have a tuner and exhaust done so that helps. Gears will be in the future
 
#418 ·
Hey Fast, any update on the 5100's being available anytime soon? I ordered them from Bully's about two weeks ago and I'm waiting on those before I put my lift on. I'm going with the 6" RC lift, 35x12.5x18 Nitto Trail Grappler M/T's on MKW M88's.

Would it be wise to throw 1.5" rear coil spacers in with the lift to offset the maxed out bilstein's? Not sure if anyone is running those or not. Just wondering how the ride is.

Thanks
 
#419 ·
Bilsteins are still on a nationwide back order.
We have a few others waiting as well :/

Personally, if you'll be running 35's, I would not max the Bilsteins and throw the 1.5 rear coil spacer on. Simply because the 35's will look extremely small
What I'd do is set the Bilsteins at 0.7 for slight rake or 1.4 for near levelness.
Unless you like tires looking small :D
 
#420 ·
Wisdom needed

I have a 2011 Ram 1500 I'm about to have fun with! Although trying to make the best call for balance on MPG. + not have to get into a lot of major modifications. I'd like to go RCX 6 inch. But scared to run over 35 x 12.50 20. Can I get away with 35's on a 6 inch lift? Or will the tires look to small? I drive 28k miles a year. All hwy.....
 
#421 ·
I have a 2011 Ram 1500 I'm about to have fun with! Although trying to make the best call for balance on MPG. + not have to get into a lot of major modifications. I'd like to go RCX 6 inch. But scared to run over 35 x 12.50 20. Can I get away with 35's on a 6 inch lift? Or will the tires look to small? I drive 28k miles a year. All hwy.....
You'll be OK.
If you're still worried... Go the 4" route.

Let me know if I can help you with either
 
#429 ·
is there a way to tell what gears you have? I have a 2010 ram 1500 crew cab SLT big horn edition
 
#431 ·
There is also a sticker on the rear diff if you look under it
Another way is to put it on jack stands, but calling the dealer would be easier. Just I case anyone wants to know how to do it here's how...
This is probably the easiest way to measure your rearend ratio, as it doesn't require removing the differential cover. Jack up the rear end of the truck (so that both rear tires are off the ground) and make a mark (or pick a spot) on both the driveshaft and a rear tire. With the transmission in neutral, spin the tire by hand through one rotation, and count the number of times the driveshaft turns. The number of driveshaft rotations is your rearend ratio. (For example, if the driveshaft turns about three and a half times, the ratio is probably 3.55. If its almost three and a quarter, the ratio is probably 3.21. Almost four times, 3.91s, etc.
The procedure above applies if you have a Sure Grip (limited slip) differential or a locker. If you have an open differential, the procedure is the same, but you will need to spin the tire through two rotations instead of just one.
 
#432 ·
Thank you!:smileup:
 
#433 ·
anyone run into a rattling in the rear of their truck after the lift? when I drive over some rough patches i will here a slight rattling like something is loose in the back some where, Iv checked multiple times underneath and everything is tight. The only thing I can think of that could be causing the rattling is the rear spacers may be wiggling just enough to cause the rattle? where it is a shorty, could the weight difference maybe be causing it to not push down on the spacers and hold them in place tightly?
 
#434 ·
I had it as well. Could never find it. Tried replacing the rear coils. Didn't work. Then I took to RCX head quarters and they couldn't find it. The new owner claims he fixed it because a crossmember bolt was loose. But think he was making that up.
 
#440 ·
Bully's is still currently working on loading products into their new website so you probably won't find them there yet. But if you email Andrew at fastnugly@bullysperformance.com letting him know what you want he'll send you a quote and then if you want to purchase it, a custom cart link to their website with the products you want.
 
#447 ·
After 2 and a half days it's on and drives great!! Didn't really have time to get any good pictures last night. Going to need side steps now, pictures do not do justice as to how big it is, my 35's look so small.

SPECS:
RCX" 6" Lift - new kit, no rear coil spring
Stock front shocks
35x12.50x17 Tires.





 
#452 · (Edited)
6in RCX (SKU: 324S)
FUEL KRANK 20x10 Deep Lip
35x12.5r20 Federal Couragia M/T



I do have a complaint; and I'm wondering if anyone else had to deal with this. Less than two months after the install, the Drivers Knuckle and Passenger Knuckle are both rusting heavily.

Tire Auto part Sculpture Metal

Tire Automotive tire Auto part Automotive wheel system Automotive exterior


The problem I have here is (1) If the warranty department sends me new parts, it's going to take hours to do the switch, and (2) If they don't send new parts I have to figure out what I can brush on the knuckles that won't affect the rubber on the ball joints.

The installation instructions for this kit (You can download it right from their website) shows pictures of them installing aluminum knuckles. For $1400 (without shipping costs) you would think we could get either aluminum knuckles or knuckles that have been painted in a way that they won't rust.

Guys like us hate rust, and RCX should now that. I sent RCX a message and we'll see what happens.


Edit: First response just came. What a joke:




My response:
"​Factory Knuckes DO NOT do the same thing if kept clean. They certainly do not rust after two months. Even if the factory knuckles did rust, it would not be visable because the wheels cover the knuckle. With your lift, the knuckles are the most visable part on the kit. This is the 4th truck I've owned and the first spot of visable rust I've ever had is on two of your parts.


The installation instructions for this kit (as downloaded from your website: http://www.roughcountry.com/install/92132400.pdf) shows pictures of your team installing aluminum knuckles. For $1400 (without shipping costs) you would think we could get either those same aluminum knuckles or knuckles that have been painted in a way that they won't rust.


"Factory knuckles do the same thing. This will cause any weakness or damage to the part." is not an acceptable answer.


See the attached images."
 

Attachments

#454 ·
6in RCX (SKU: 324S)
FUEL KRANK 20x10 Deep Lip
35x12.5r20 Federal Couragia M/T

I do have a complaint; and I'm wondering if anyone else had to deal with this. Less than two months after the install, the Drivers Knuckle and Passenger Knuckle are both rusting heavily.

The problem I have here is (1) If the warranty department sends me new parts, it's going to take hours to do the switch, and (2) If they don't send new parts I have to figure out what I can brush on the knuckles that won't affect the rubber on the ball joints.

The installation instructions for this kit (You can download it right from their website) shows pictures of them installing aluminum knuckles. For $1400 (without shipping costs) you would think we could get either aluminum knuckles or knuckles that have been painted in a way that they won't rust.

Guys like us hate rust, and RCX should now that. I sent RCX a message and we'll see what happens.


Edit: First response just came. What a joke:


My response:
"​Factory Knuckes DO NOT do the same thing if kept clean. They certainly do not rust after two months. Even if the factory knuckles did rust, it would not be visable because the wheels cover the knuckle. With your lift, the knuckles are the most visable part on the kit. This is the 4th truck I've owned and the first spot of visable rust I've ever had is on two of your parts.


The installation instructions for this kit (as downloaded from your website: http://www.roughcountry.com/install/92132400.pdf) shows pictures of your team installing aluminum knuckles. For $1400 (without shipping costs) you would think we could get either those same aluminum knuckles or knuckles that have been painted in a way that they won't rust.


"Factory knuckles do the same thing. This will cause any weakness or damage to the part." is not an acceptable answer.


See the attached images."
You put bare steel under your truck... did you seriously expect it not to rust? :4-dontknow: It's no use in getting RCX to send you new ones, there's nothing wrong with what you have. The new ones they send you will do the exact same thing. If you want the problem fixed, take them off, clean them up (sand blast if you have that option) and then paint them up properly so they don't rust.
That is one of the downsides to the RCX kit. The knuckles should be coming powder coated like the rest of the kit.
 
#459 ·
He just responded again. It was basically a reiteration from his manager that I should consider it normal. He had an additional argument: "With it being a cast knuckle we do not paint them," an argument that doesn't pass the common sense test.

Most guys that are lifting are not doing it just for function. It's also about the looks; and rust looks like crap. If you're in the business of making these types of pruducts, it should be assumed that customers expect a quality product that will not rust under normal conditions (IMO there can be no practical argument that a knuckle which rusts inside of two months is quality).

I can take some blame for not noticing the lack of paint before. I can also fix the rust myself, and I will. I just don't believe I should have to... certainly not after just two months. :smiledown:

Still loving the truck though, 50 SMiles Per Gallon!

Cheers,
 
#462 ·
 
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