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2014 1500 w/Rancho Quicklift

18K views 61 replies 21 participants last post by  abadley 
#1 ·
Thanks to Bully's Performance I now have a leveled truck. I checked with Bully's to see if they knew if the Rancho Quicklifts's would fit on my 2014 and they contacted Rancho and found out they would work.

I started by removing the front tires, tie rod, lower shock bolt, all three upper shock bolts, and upper ball joint. I used a pry bar to push the lower A-arm down a little and slid the OE shock and spring assy out. On the drivers side it went back together the same way it came apart. These shock and springs assy's will only fit into the strut tower one way. The three upper bolts are in a sort of tall triangle pattern. When I went to install the assy in the passenger side I noticed that the adjusting knob for shock stiffness was going to face the rear of the vehicle and be very close to the front axle shaft which it might rub against and would make it darn near impossible to adjust. As you can see from the picture I mounted the assy in my vice and used a couple of coil spring clamps to relieve a little pressure on the spring and rotate the upper assy to face the right direction to get my adjuster to point to the front of the truck. The adjuster is the little red knob on the bottom of the shock.

I didn't take the time to measure before I installed the Quicklifts but I think the end result looks pretty good. Now it's off to the alignment shop Friday morning to get that adjusted. Over all it took a little over and hour to install both sides. :smiley_thumbs_up:

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#2 ·
very nice! Glad you are like the stance, those are so much easier to install than bilsteins :) (when doing it yourself), little over an hour for both sides not to bad at all, once you get it aligned let us know how you like the ride! and thanks for posting pics truck looks awesome!

Thanks
Jeremiah
 
#5 ·
Is the manufacturer #RS999793? Havent heard much about the Rancho because Ive been so focused on the bilstein but these definitely intrigue me.
 
#10 ·
I'll probably stick with the stock size for now.

I've put these on my son's 2006 TRX about a year ago and they are still working well. I had the same ones as I just put on this truck on my 2011 and put about 70,000 miles on them and they were still working great. It took me a little time to get them adjusted just how I wanted them but after that they worked great.
 
#14 ·
At 6 how's it ride compared to stock?
 
#16 ·
I will be trying to dial in something close to factory smooth with improved overall handling. Hopefully that is an achievable balance.
 
#19 ·
After reading the OP's write up, (very nice, thank you) I see no mention of a spring compressor other than to rotate the ride adjusting knob to the front. Assuming the knob is in the correct position, is a spring compressor required for the swap from factory?
 
#20 ·
No spring compressor needed to install them. I did use a pry bar to give me a little leverage to compress them just a fuzz to get them over the a-arm. I put them in at the top first and put the nuts on loosely, then slid the bottom into place, it has to go over the lower a-arm to slide into place inside the a-arm. I used the pry bar to get it over that part of the a-arm.
 
#21 ·
Great write up. I was looking at the install sheet that came with the kit. Just trying to get an idea of what tools I will need. Were there any special tools needed for this swap? Also, if anyone knows where to find a better install sheet that would be appreciated. I have basic tools at home, but if I need to borrow some from work I want to make sure I grab them. Thanks.
 
#24 ·
You should have a torque wrench to tighten things properly. I am supprised that the ball joints Ram uses do not have a cotter pin, making proper torque all the more important. I also found my impact wrench to be usefull in getting the tierod ball joint nut loose, with a wrench it just wanted to spin.
 
#25 ·
Do you know the torque specs off hand by chance? Also, all pretty much standard socket sizes? Nothing oversized? I just want to make sure that I have everything I need to get it done the first time. Cant afford to have the truck sitting at all. This is the first major work I am doing on my truck and I am doing it myself so I just want to be sure.
 
#26 ·
Found a chart for the torque specs on another thread, try a search for "Bilstein install"
No odd ball sockets or anthing that I found for the fronts. The rears take a larger metric socket than I had in my standard Kobalt socket set.
 
#27 ·
Installed my ranchos this evening, like others have stated the directions were not exactly clear. Took me about two hours, the second one went in faster after the initial learning curve. Fairly simple install though. I will get some pictures tomorrow, I messed up though by not getting a before picture. I apologize lol One question, one of the sheets in the box said something about extending the strut before install? Is that right? The second sheet then said don't worry about that statement these are already fully extended. Hopefully someone can shed some light on that. How much true height did you gain from these struts? Just curious. Thanks
 
#28 ·
No extending or "unlocking" necessary on the struts, only the rear shocks. Got my rears on yesterday and an alignment, still playing with settings to get ride perfect right now set at 6F/5R I will get final lift numbers today. My guess is that I got every bit of the 2.25" advertised.
 
#29 ·
I have the front set at 6 and I think I will keep it set there. It rides stiffer, but the quality of the ride is better. Feels more crisp in the front. I am very happy with the results and the ride quality though. Worth the money for sure. After the level I was left with around a half inch of rake which to me is perfect. Next stop, new tires. lol How soon should I get the alignment done btw?
 
#30 ·
I let mine settle for about 100 miles, jsut to get everything seated and then had it aligned. I would not go too long as my camber was way positive and the toe was also off by a bit. No need to tear up your tires.
 
#31 ·
I let mine settle for about 100 miles, jsut to get everything seated and then had it aligned. I would not go too long as my camber was way positive and the toe was also off by a bit. No need to tear up your tires.
Sounds good, thanks. Did you post any pics of your truck by the way? I will get mine up this evening for sure. Also, it would be a shame if the tires were to...."go bad" for "no apparent reason" lol Then I would have a case to my wife to get the trail grapplers I want.
 
#32 ·
What size tires you wanting to get? I am running the Hankook DynaPro RF10's in 275/65s and absolutely love them. They look agressive (not as agressive as the nitto trails though), are quiet on the highway and were champs in the ice and snow. Just something to consider before you buy.
 
#35 ·
What size tires you wanting to get? I am running the Hankook DynaPro RF10's in 275/65s and absolutely love them. They look agressive (not as agressive as the nitto trails though), are quiet on the highway and were champs in the ice and snow. Just something to consider before you buy.
I would like to get a set of Nitto Trails, probably 295/65 but I am open to any suggestions considering those tires are crazy expensive lol. Thanks for the tip on those, I will look into them.
 
#36 ·
Like lowfast said Rancho claims they will, but as you will read on many other threads every truck is different. What look are you going for? Do you plan to run fender flares at all? Do you like a wide stance? Check the wheel and tire sizing thread, there are plenty of examples of the different looks you can get with different tire sizes and wheel offsets.
 
#34 ·
Rancho says they will. My guess is that the offset will be critical, something in the 0 to -12 range.
 
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