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Good place to get a part....

2K views 26 replies 5 participants last post by  striker2237 
#1 ·
Does anyone know the cheapest place to get a hold of a fully forged 408 rotating assembly from eagle? Prices online are all over the place and I don't want to over pay for such an already expensive item. Thanks guys.
 
#4 ·
Oddly enough bud i had been looking into these as well for my new project truck and the best prices i found were either summit or jegs. Also some of the other things i had found while i was looking is alot of people seem to prefer scat over eagle. For the main reason being that the eagle cranks where often a quite a bit out of balance? I can neither confirm or deny this as i have no experience bit just figured id pass this along...

If you want to talk to someone who is a wealth of knowledge get ahold of Hemilonestar. Hes a great guy and answered alot of my questions on the matter.
 
#5 ·
Thanks, ill go look around there and see what I can put together. Now when you say the eagles are out of balance this worries me greatly as I plan to spin this engine more than what most would for something of it's stroke length. I was going to have eagle balance the kit for me but if they don't do a good job I guess I will go with scat or have my guy do it instead lol! What is this "project" truck you speak of :Wow1:
 
#6 ·
Like i mentioned take it with a grain of salt as i have no quantitative data to back it up. It was just the generalization from the numerous sites that i had been on. To add to that it seems that eagle does 100% of production over seas, where as scat manufactures 80% of the crank overseas but balances/finish machines in there plant in the states.

If you are planning on spinning her pretty fast i would suggest spending the extra dime and going forged if you arent already. Its pretty cheap insurance to avoid the possible to spend more dough and do'er a again.

And my new project is an 83 D150 i picked up a few weeks ago, I planned on starting a build thread on her but hell i havent even gotten to crawl under her yet being as she stored at my parents place and i aint been able to get back since. LOL
 
#7 ·
Nice project truck! I my self got a 95 maxima from some family members I'm repairing to use as a daily to keep wear off my truck. On the topic of the parts though.....I always buy the company that is american made when I can, if scat does the balancing over here then I will buy their parts for that reason alone. I was also already planing forged because I will most likely add a blower next year to the engine.
 
#8 ·
Im not gunna lie i grunted a bit when you said blower.. That will be pretty bitchin. Im honestly not trying to steer you away from eagle man, i hope it doesnt sound that way. Im just tying to share all the info I can to avoid someone running into issues.

Im looking forward to you getting this thing up and cooking it soulds like it will be a power house!
 
#9 ·
Im not gunna lie i grunted a bit when you said blower.. That will be pretty bitchin. Im honestly not trying to steer you away from eagle man, i hope it doesnt sound that way. Im just tying to share all the info I can to avoid someone running into issues.

Im looking forward to you getting this thing up and cooking it soulds like it will be a power house!
 
#13 ·
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-48035bi

I followed your advice Kaman, I think I'm going to go with this kit. Only thing I don't like is that this kit does not have H-beam connecting rods, is there a way to order a kit with H-beams instead? I ask because I don't want to snap a rod, my #1 concern with this build is engine longevity with the second goal being power.
 
#15 ·
Il answer your question with another question man, is there a specific reason you want H-beam rods. If you are planning on boosting this beast then I-beams would be the better choice IMO. They have a much much higher compression strength as well has bending modulus to take the abuse of a blower.

As for bearings I would call, it mentions there are a few different types, I know that the clevites I used in my '65 mustang held up well so i would see if you could make sure to get the clevite 77's
 
#16 ·
Yeah after doing quite a bit of research on the matter I'm now permanently removing H-beam rods from my list of options, seems that you are totally right and I-beam is better in every way to an H-beam lol! Thanks for the bearing recommendation, Ill call them and see if they can swap in a set of those for higher price or something. Thanks man!
 
#17 ·
I think you should get the machine shop you are planning on using involved. They should be able to give you some expert advise on what is best for the end product, (you say you want to add forced induction). Your machine shop should be your best friend right now as you will want them to stand behind what they do, as well as what you do. The worst thing you can do is show up with a pile of stuff that you bought mail order and expect results that someone else (or some magazine) advertised.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Here you go. Check this guy out. They have a very good reputation in the Mopar racing community. And he's right next door in Michigan.
http://www.musclemotorsracing.com/stroker-category.html
This is the page with their 408 kit.
I'm playing with a Plymouth B-body that will be using a stroked 400 big-block. I will be buying my kit from him.
 
#22 ·
While it is a cost effective kit, his build is to be blown or heavily bottle fed. And that kit is a cast crank and h-beam rods, which is not close to the realm of strength that he will need for the build he his planning.

Striker, i agree with what catch 22 said. Before you throw down any cash on this get a meeting with your builder/machinist and see what he has to say. If he has been around the block awhile he can give you information most of us cant.
 
#21 ·
Well I'm going to be getting ALOT of machine work done so most of the money is going toward that honestly, I'm basicly going to have the block fully race preped and all the ports on every part matched to the next and the gaskets trimed to match. Plus blueprinting and align honing really makes any rotating assembly over $2500 start to endanger the transmission upgrade timeframe. I want to get about a 13.4 1/4 mile with 550 RWHP lol! Plus the kit has H-beam rods and I do NOT want those after doing research on those vs I-beam.
 
#23 ·
Okay so I've all but decided I'm going to go with this kit http://www.jegs.com/i/Scat/942/1-48035/10002/-1?parentProductId=2799622#moreDetails as it has what I am looking for feature wise. Now the problem I am running into is I need a 9.0 or lower CR to work with the blower and all my calculations are showing that these pistons (+20.22cc, unless its -20.22) will have a CR of over 12.....much too much for even NA and even giving the site the benefit of the doubt with the +/- issue its still going to be in the low 10s with -20.22cc so my question is, is there a way to have them substitute some deep dish pistons instead of the one they provide? Thanks guys.
 
#27 ·
O god.....stop it....I WANT IT!!!!! Now you went and made me go look at stuff that breaks my project goal! :LOL: I want to keep my original block but these new engines are nice......but then again they aren't compatible with the rest of the truck.....but they are ready to go......GAH! You are yet another person just telling me to get a crate engine lol! I'm starting to be convinced I'm going about this the hard way!
 
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