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Electrical 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Electrical Problems and Questions.


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  #1  
Old 02-22-2014, 01:18 PM
menglan64 menglan64 is offline
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I have an issue with the ABS system on my 2001 Dodge Ram 3500 Turbo 4x4. The ABS pump is actuating without touching brake pedal. Usually begins from 10 mph down to o. When I do apply the brake pedal, it feels rather hard and pulsates until I come to a complete stop. It makes you feel that the vehicle will not stop, but by pushing real hard on brake pedal, the vehicle will stop. Any troubleshooting thoughts ??????
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Old 02-23-2014, 03:05 AM
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That sounds more like you have a sensor that is outta whack. Is the ABS light on and have you checked for codes?
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Old 02-23-2014, 12:29 PM
menglan64 menglan64 is offline
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I did have the RT. front caliper replaced due to not releasing properly. Had a scan on ABS system and showed the LT. front sensor dropping off to 0 while RT. front and rears maintained ground speed while coming to a stop. Replaced LT. front sensor and scan showed better results by not dropping to 0, but still was not same ground speed as RT. front and rears. There is still an issue with the LT. front sensor according to the scan. I do not want to continue spending money in replacing parts to resolve the problem. The problem needs to be identified before hand. The repair shop wants to replace the LT. front ABS hub ??????? Dollars !!!To me, the ABS pump is telling me that a brake is not releasing properly. As far as I can tell, all brakes are releasing as they should.
I appreciate your continued thought on the issue. Thanks !
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Old 02-23-2014, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by menglan64 View Post
I did have the RT. front caliper replaced due to not releasing properly. Had a scan on ABS system and showed the LT. front sensor dropping off to 0 while RT. front and rears maintained ground speed while coming to a stop. Replaced LT. front sensor and scan showed better results by not dropping to 0, but still was not same ground speed as RT. front and rears. There is still an issue with the LT. front sensor according to the scan. I do not want to continue spending money in replacing parts to resolve the problem. The problem needs to be identified before hand. The repair shop wants to replace the LT. front ABS hub ??????? Dollars !!!To me, the ABS pump is telling me that a brake is not releasing properly. As far as I can tell, all brakes are releasing as they should.
I appreciate your continued thought on the issue. Thanks !
The ABS is a dumb system, meaning it doesn't know how much pressure is applied to the braking system, only that the brake is being pressed. It uses the info from the sensors. When it sees different sensors with different speeds, or no speed, it releases pressure from the brake lines to prevent the wheels from locking up.

Seems to me like the tech is just throwing things at it now, which does cost money, and lots of it. Really depends on how much your willing to spend and how dependent you are on the ABS system. The ABS is a secondary system and will not effect the primary braking system.
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Old 02-23-2014, 07:11 PM
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I understand of what is being said about the ABS system. I will let this tech troubleshoot some more. No parts replacement until it makes sense to me in resolving the issue. I am thinking of pulling the fuse to the system. Hopefully it won't screw the computer up ?????
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Old 02-23-2014, 08:54 PM
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Pulling the ABS fuse won't screw up the brake system.
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Old 02-27-2014, 03:13 PM
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Getting back with info on my ABS issue. Finally the ABS light and brake light remained on after start up. A scan was made and a code showed that the RT. ABS dump valve was shorted. I asked what the heck was an ABS dump valve and it's location. My understanding, the dump valve releases the brake pressure (to keep brakes from freezing up or locking up) and is actuated electrically through the ABS Controller. All (ABS module, accumulator, dump valves), is incorporated in the ABS Controller located under hood, driver's side, left of brake master and next to the main fuse power box. The ABS controller will have to be replaced and is a Dodge part. With a Dodge dealer quote, the unit cost $1010.00. I have pulled the ABS fuse because of the scan showing a short. It could drain batteries. The ABS and brake lights will always remain on while operating vehicle. Covered the lights with black tape for now. The brakes operate great without the ABS system. All brakes seem to release properly under normal vehicle operation. I will have to decide in replacing the ABS Contoller. I probably will at some point. Thanks so much for troubleshooting. This is a great place to be for input on our Dodge vehicles.
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Old 02-27-2014, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by menglan64 View Post
Getting back with info on my ABS issue. Finally the ABS light and brake light remained on after start up. A scan was made and a code showed that the RT. ABS dump valve was shorted. I asked what the heck was an ABS dump valve and it's location. My understanding, the dump valve releases the brake pressure (to keep brakes from freezing up or locking up) and is actuated electrically through the ABS Controller. All (ABS module, accumulator, dump valves), is incorporated in the ABS Controller located under hood, driver's side, left of brake master and next to the main fuse power box. The ABS controller will have to be replaced and is a Dodge part. With a Dodge dealer quote, the unit cost $1010.00. I have pulled the ABS fuse because of the scan showing a short. It could drain batteries. The ABS and brake lights will always remain on while operating vehicle. Covered the lights with black tape for now. The brakes operate great without the ABS system. All brakes seem to release properly under normal vehicle operation. I will have to decide in replacing the ABS Contoller. I probably will at some point. Thanks so much for troubleshooting. This is a great place to be for input on our Dodge vehicles.
Traveler
Voonderbar! Well, maybe not so wonderful... but at least you got if figured out. Dodge is mighty proud of the ABS controller, that's a pretty steep bill. Anyway, thanks for posting an update.
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Old 02-28-2014, 11:03 PM
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I know I'm late. However, disabling the ABS only disables the ABS and returns the vehicle to having more conventional style brakes. I.e. they can be locked up if applied forcefully.

The problem with the R/T front is that the ABS system thinks that one brake is locking because of the bad reading. Therefore the ABS pump kicks in to control the vehicle to a stop. That's why you're getting the pulsing.

I had a '96 Cougar with a turbo. It tried to kill me. The throttle got stuck from a stop to a quick shot to cross an intersection. I was sitting at the stop sign and when traffic cleared, I jumped on it. The throttle stuck at about 3/4 open. Immediately after the intersection there is a sharp curve in the road bordered by some unmovable trees. ANyway, the throttle stuck and I got to the curve pretty quick. Hit the brakes and the ABS kicked in...brake pedal pulsing...back wheels smoking. Tree.
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  #10  
Old 03-07-2014, 10:58 PM
menglan64 menglan64 is offline
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Wow !!! What an experience !!
Can you tell me if the entire brake system has to be bled when replacing the ABS Module???? I have reviewed a lot of web sites that explain the know how of replacing the ABS Module, however, they never mention bleeding the brake system. Only going on test drive and actuate the brakes at different speeds. Then the existing fault code needs to be cleared if operation is ok (normal).
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