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Custom Dodge Ram Interior and Exterior Lighting HID - HALO - LED LIGHTING - UNDERBODY LIGHTING - TINTED/SMOKED/PAINTED TAILS - ETC.


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  #1  
Old 01-27-2014, 06:03 PM
THasse THasse is offline
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Red face How much wattage can the system handle?

Hey guys, I got an 05 Ram 1500 QC. I did the HID conversion and am very pleased with the lows, would still like to do something about my highs for those long open roads in NE during deer season. I'm thinking about installing some implement lights from the local ag retailer but I need to know how many amps this system can handle. Since there's no fuse for the lighting on these trucks, how much can it take before I start frying things? I'm going to bypass the "high" bulb in the headlight and run that wire down to the new lights and it will likely be significantly brighter as they could be seen as "less than street legal" for intensity. Any thoughts?
It's either that or wire them directly to the battery with a switch that engages when I kick on the brights. Either way, I want them to run when my brights would normally be on, so it kicks my low and fogs off.
Thanks in advance!!
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:43 PM
Monster5601 Monster5601 is offline
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Typically, a halogen bulb will have an in-rush current of 27 amps with a run-time current draw of around 4 to 5 amps.

You could always use a relay to avoid stressing the high beam electrical system.
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Old 01-27-2014, 07:00 PM
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Kamanhart Kamanhart is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THasse View Post
Hey guys, I got an 05 Ram 1500 QC. I did the HID conversion and am very pleased with the lows, would still like to do something about my highs for those long open roads in NE during deer season. I'm thinking about installing some implement lights from the local ag retailer but I need to know how many amps this system can handle. Since there's no fuse for the lighting on these trucks, how much can it take before I start frying things? I'm going to bypass the "high" bulb in the headlight and run that wire down to the new lights and it will likely be significantly brighter as they could be seen as "less than street legal" for intensity. Any thoughts?
It's either that or wire them directly to the battery with a switch that engages when I kick on the brights. Either way, I want them to run when my brights would normally be on, so it kicks my low and fogs off.
Thanks in advance!!
To add to what monster had just said the relay would be the optimum way to go about this, so run power the lights directly from the battery as you stated but use the high beam wire as a trigger for you relay, you could just splice into the wire for your high beams so they would still be active but it would also engage your futured plans lights to kick on and off as well
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:03 AM
THasse THasse is offline
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Thanks a bunch for the input guys!! I'm thinking your right about the relay being the way to go. It was as much curiosity as much as it was planning. Hopefully it'll get nicer out here so I can go out and get some brighter lights on this darn truck!!!
Rep point for both of you if I can remember how to do it! lol
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Old 01-30-2014, 06:43 PM
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Excoastie Excoastie is offline
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Originally Posted by THasse View Post
Thanks a bunch for the input guys!! I'm thinking your right about the relay being the way to go. It was as much curiosity as much as it was planning. Hopefully it'll get nicer out here so I can go out and get some brighter lights on this darn truck!!!
Rep point for both of you if I can remember how to do it! lol
Something else to keep in mind is the size of the wire versus the load (amount of amps) and fusing it properly.

If you're going to draw a heavy load (30A or so) I would run at least #10 wire. It's probably over kill, but better safe than sorry.

good luck

Exco
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