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  #1  
Old 09-25-2013, 10:36 AM
EWC88 EWC88 is offline
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Default Question on rust removal

So I have some rust on bottom of the inside of my drivers door, also to the back of bed the corner looking up from ground. I want to fix this myself by sanding, primer, paint, clear. I know it won't be a professional job, but as long as it looks good I am fine with that because you don't really see the spots were rust is. My questions for you guys are:

1. What should I use to remove rust? Was going using drill with wire brush, but not sure on that.

2. Going your duplicolor perfect match paint and also primer, possibly filler if needed, what clear cost brand should I use?

3. After done should I wax/polish that area or no?
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:08 AM
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paint bubbles or rust through?

first and foremost, fixing rust and repainting is much much more time and patience than tools. I've seen rattle can jobs that are incredible, and shop jobs that made me scream and run. Time, patience. more Time....

Step 1 if there's still metal left, sand/scrape as best you can. wire brush is fine, there are lots of tools available. then coat with rust converting jelly/spray. do that a couple times to make sure you got it all. Mix up some bondo - again the brand is far less important than surface prep. and fill in the bumps. then sand smooth, fill in gaps, sand smooth. repeat until your eyes bleed. then give it a light coat of spray primer. any lines you missed will show up right now. sand smooth and add bondo if necessary. sand and smooth. spray again. sand smooth. once you can put a coat of primer on and see nothing, you're there.

Now paint. get the best match you can. If it's a not highly visible area, often duplicolor is pretty darn good. if you have access to your own spray gun, have some paint mixed up for you. build up a coat of primer or 4. painting is just like body filling, only using much finer sandpaper. spray a coat of paint. many thin coats is better than one or two thick ones. paint, very lightly sand. repeat until you can't stand it.

buff it out with a good polish, then wax it up. give your fingers a chance to reattach themselves to your hands, and crack a cold one.

if there's holes in the metal - might be better to go to a body shop and have them cut out the bad stuff and replace the metal. then grind it smooth for you - then see step 1
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Last edited by anothernewb; 09-25-2013 at 11:11 AM.
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:48 PM
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No holes, paint bubbles. Now when you say sand the paint down when painting should I wet sand or just normal dry sand? Any specific grits you recommend for sanding? Both bondo and paint? Do you think I don't need a clear coat sprayed on?
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:16 PM
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You can wet sand, i prefer it. No dust to breathe.
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Old 09-26-2013, 10:48 AM
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I would clear coat it when done.

I'm no body expert here so take what I'm about to say as a guideline - not an exact suggestion.

initial sanding probably something in the 60-80 grit range. use whatever tools you need to get rid of any loose rust. what you're doing here is getting all of the stuff out of the way and getting to bare metal.

bondo sanding - 80 or 100 to start with depending on how good your bondo skills are. then up to 220 for feathering

initial coat primer sanding 220-400

in between primer coats and finish feathering 600-800

between paint coats 1000-2000

between clear coats 4000, or rubbing compound

use a cream polish or clear coat polish and then wax


the general idea between paint coats is to not sand through the layer of paint you just applied. just a light touch is really needed. between color coats you're just aiming at knocking down the orange peel and any small bumps or paint splatters. If you see bondo edges or lines, then you need to go back and smooth out the bondo coat more. like I said, the first time you hit the bondo with primer you'll see all kinds of marks you swore were perfectly smooth. use finer grits, and a light touch and blend it all in. You'll know you got it right when you spray primer and all you see is the tiny bumps in the primer coat.

one way to give yourself an idea of how a paint coat should look on a smooth surface is to spray some paint on a mirror. you'll see the orange peel bumpy look clearly and you'll then know what to look for. you'll never get all the bumps out, the idea is just to blend things into the existing paint to the point where the repair looks as invisible as you can get.

one thing to watch for is paint lines from where you've masked things off. when you're taping things off try to place the tape and plastic at metal edges, folds, behind panels, that sort of thing. don;t be surprised if you end up having to spray more than a foot of panel to find an edge. Just take your time and blend in the paint coats.
It's kinda like doing mud coats on drywall. build it up and smooth it out best you can.
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Last edited by anothernewb; 09-26-2013 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:00 AM
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I saw duplicolor has a filler primer, can I use that or you suggest bondo instead? I will take some pictures if the rust I have that I want to fix after class.
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:31 AM
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all depends on the level of rust. light stuff, perhaps. myself, I'd still use bondo.

if the damage was indeed small enough that a spray primer could cover it. I'd save myself a bunch of work and spray a converter over it, spray some primer and paint. forget about the rest.
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Old 10-02-2013, 12:28 PM
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I was able to take some quick photos, the first 2 are of the door which is the worst of the rust spots. Then the second is behind the rear tire looking up from ground.







For the one behind tire, will it be ok to remove that bolt to fix? Should I plug the hole when repairing or have that involved as well? No sure if its stainless, but if not you think I should just replace the bolt with stainless steel?
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Old 10-03-2013, 07:26 PM
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The doors it seems like it's only surface rust. I'd just wire wheel the loose rust off and spray with a rust inhibitor and primer/paint. After the door is cleaned of rust if it's more than just surface rust bondo it. for the rear I'd take out the bolt, wire wheel, rust inhibitor, bondo and primer paint.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:19 AM
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Any special kind of bondo? Went to advance and saw several kinds. Weather has been crappy and I've been busy so couldn't do it yet but hoping to use my girlfriends step dads 5 car garage for the job.
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