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  #31  
Old 06-27-2013, 06:55 PM
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you are as I am running the same thing on my 09 with no hyperflashing...strange.
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  #32  
Old 06-27-2013, 07:13 PM
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Yea, very weird, will try resistors, and or the reflash if dealer gets back to me before I install resistors
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  #33  
Old 08-24-2013, 12:50 PM
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I've got the OEM Projectors with adapter harness from Retro Shop on my 2013 Express RCSB. The LBQ code didn't work at the dealership... mine still has the hyperflashing signal indicators on the dash display. Plus the EVIC says left and right signals are both out. I checked, and the exterior signal lights front and rear are all working normal, so the hyperflashing is just on the dash display only... weird.
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  #34  
Old 09-28-2013, 09:41 PM
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If you are upgrading to Projectors w/ LED turn signals up front and/or LED tail lights the following info should help you with hyper flashing...

If you can get the dealer to update your ECM/BCM with sales code "LBQ" be aware that this only eliminates the need for resistors on the tail lights. You'll still need resistors for your front LED park/turn signals.

Now to the "secret" on fixing the hyper flashing:

If you had no problems beforehand, then tried LEDs without a resistor and get the hyper flashing, a fault will be stored in the ECM/BCM, and you'll need to reset the Fault to get it to go away.

If you decided to add resistors to your LEDs after you've already gotten the hyper flashing, that fault has already been stored so you'll likely get the problem 'Copperhead Ram' has where they seem to work fine but the "Bulb Out" won't go away and again, you need to reset the Fault.

Here's the "secret" to reset the hyper flashing bulb out fault: have the key turned off, plug your standard incadescent head & tail lights back in, turn key on, cycle your park lights, head lights, left turn, and right turn. This will reset the ECM/BCM and the Bulb Out will finally turn off. Now turn your key off and hook your LEDs back up WITH resistors inline before you turn the key back on and try the LEDs.

This should fix your problem.

Last edited by dooramit; 09-28-2013 at 09:49 PM.
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  #35  
Old 10-01-2013, 03:59 AM
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I messed up on my above post. It's not the ECM/BCM that controls the hyperflashing and bulb out fault...it's the TIPM.

I'd edit the previous post but I've logged in a couple times now and don't see an edit button. Sorry.
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  #36  
Old 10-13-2013, 09:51 PM
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The dealership cleared every code and it came back after a few mins. Oh well, at least the lights don't hyperflash, just the dash indicators. I can't be bothered with taking apart the front of my truck again just to access the headlights for more troubleshooting.

Last edited by Copperhead Ram; 10-13-2013 at 09:54 PM.
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  #37  
Old 10-16-2013, 02:53 AM
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Maybe unhooking the battery cable for 30 minutes would do the trick?

Did you add resistors to your front turn signals? I haven't personally done the headlight upgrade yet or used Retro Shop's harness adapters but from looking at their pics they do not come with resistors already wired into them. First off, the resistors are almost 3/4" x 2" in size and secondly, shouldn't be wrapped up in wire loom. So I highly doubt the park/turn signal resistors are in the Retro Shop harness.
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  #38  
Old 10-18-2013, 12:59 PM
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Obviously, load resistors can be used on truck. Or based upon your truck's year you might have other cleaner & more reliable options:

For 2009 trucks the only method is to use load resistors.

For 2010 & 2011 trucks the "LBQ" sales code can be flashed to the TIPM (this requires dealer involvement).

2012 trucks have what I call a "LED Prep" wire already installed, you just have to find the L950 light green w/ with tracer wire near the Power Distribution Center in the engine compartment and ground it (it's coiled up with 4 additional wires & terminated with heat shrink).

2013 trucks have a few different ways to stay away from resistors: 1. if you have a VSIM in your truck you can find & ground the proper wire. 2. Cut the proper wire located at the CBC up under the dash by parking cable & above Alpine amp if you have the premium sound & ground it. 3. Use wire terminal kit #P68225777AA (which might already be included & laying in the glove box) to add a wire to an external connector located on driver's side behind front wheel well liner and grounding it.

All of this info I've acquired from the RAM Body Builder site with easily understandable color photos and step-by-step directions in PDF format. Because of where this all came from, there's no guarantee that '12 or '13 1500s or certain 2500s/3500s will have the proper wiring to stay away from resistors. My cousin has a '11 1500 and the dealer successfully flashed "LBQ" and it works. My '10 2500 has been flashed with "LBQ" and it works. My brother-in-law has a '12 2500 and it has the "LED Prep" wire and it works.

As for resistors...RAM specifies "9 or 10 Ohm 50 Watt load resistors." Seems a lot of people are using 6 Ohm 50 Watt and seem to work fine. I'm not an electrician so I don't know which one would actually be the best to use and/or which would be the cooler operating resistor...
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  #39  
Old 03-24-2014, 09:25 AM
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I know this is an older thread but I need some help. I bought and installed OEM projector headlamps for my 2014 outdoorsman using the pnp adaptors from retroshop. The lights work perfectly but my dash light and mirror light are hyperflashing. And my EVIC is telling me that both my front blinkers are out and my parking lights are out even though they are not. I hooked up the resistor to one of them to see if it fixed the problem and it did not. I read through this thread and see there are fixes but am still confused. Has anyone ran into this issue on a 2013 or 2014 and figured out exactly what to do to fix it? I looked on the Ram Body builder site under exterior lighting but it only discussed the rear lights not the front lights. Any help would be appreciated. I called my dealer and told them what was happening and he just said they'd have to take a look at it. He said he'd never heard of that happening. I've already taken the front apart twice to mess around with it and would like to have a solid answer for what needs to be done before I take it apart again.

Last edited by finn5033; 03-24-2014 at 09:47 AM.
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  #40  
Old 03-24-2014, 01:38 PM
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wanted to bump this back up
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