A 295/65/20 works out to 35.1"x11.6". If you want to learn how to do that calculation check out the Guide to Leveling & Wheel and Tire Sizing linked in my signature. I explain how to convert from metric to imperial sizes in there.
Looks very sharp.. Im wanting to lift my 1500 4x4 4", wanna keep stock wheels (+19mm) and 34" tires. I noticed your rims are +1 and they stick out quite a bit. I thought a negative number sticks out further? i have no idea I guess of what size rim/tire, offset, etc.. if I was to get a 4" lift. Anybody have pics of a 1500 with 4" and stock wheels??
Anything negative from the stock +19 will get pushed outwards (away from the frame)
So even though his is +1, it is still 18mm pushed out from the stock position of +19
My truck is a 2wd, so I had to use new spindles to achieve lift. With the new spindles, it widened my front track width by 1.5" on each side. So a +1 offset on a 4wd won't stick out as far.
First pics are 35 x 12.50 x 20 with 5100s @ 2.8. After has 6" Fabtech with 5100s @ 2.1 with rear spacer. Still thinking bout adding on 37s, wider wheels, Fab Fours, and Pocket Flares. Also thinking bout going back to BFG KM2s.
Very nice!
If you have the gears to run 37's, I give thumbs up for it :smileup:
KM2's are quite lighter in weight over Toyo MT and Nitto Trail.
They do cost more, but weight also plays a factor and will help when going larger
Honestly I have no idea. I called the place where I bought em cuz the truck shop wanted to know n they said it didn't have it on file. I bought the wheels more than a year ago n I couldn't fine my receipt either.
ya I think it is a 0 offset, what would be the difference with a 20x10? and if I got those what offset should I get, I just want them to pop out a bit more...
Well 20x10 is just a wider wheel. Offset/back spacing is what usually determines how far or in they stick out.
20x10 usually have deeper lips (if a lip is involved)
To go to a 20x10 you'd need at least a -12 offset. That would have a 35x12.5 sticking out about 2.5" past the fender. So about 1.75" past your flare. With a -24 offset it would be out a half inch further than that.
What about a wheel spacer? Idk anyone that's ever had one but idk if I trust it completely. Just thinking of an inexpensive way to pull out the wheel without buying brand new ones right now.
Depending on the thickness.
1/4" is good and I would run long term as you still can use your stock lugs.
The thicker wheel adapters is what I am most concerned with long term.
I would run them short term, if I could not afford the rims at this point. If I did run them, I would make sure they were hub centric and check the TQ on the lugs every so often.
You're going to need to be more specific about what truck you're talking about... If you reference the post you're talking about by using the quote button on the bottom right of the post and writing underneath it or letting us know what post number it is we can help you out.
fastNugly - Thanks bud. I through that one for the heck of it. I have around 50 feet of leds underneath it. Obviously as you can see I have interior green leds around my amp rack in the truck. I have white leds in the footwells, and under the back seats, in the flip up console in the middle of the front seats too. Has green leds above the front change holder console deal too. Its pretty bright inside when I hit the lights!