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2010 Ram Factory Trailer Brake Controller Install

215K views 347 replies 149 participants last post by  Scottfpollack 
#1 ·
Picked up the factory trailer brake controller from the Dealer I bought my truck from. Supposedly there was a high 200 unit backorder nationally but it took only a week to get it in.

The controller P/N is: 56029431AF
The beige trim is: 1EB13DK2AA

Installation took 15 minutes after discounting the fact that I was taking pictures.

This is where the factory controller is mounted.



This is the new bezel.



Face of new controller.



Bottom of new controller.



Mount the controller into the bezel. There are 2 screws you'll need to dig up and they're both different sizes. Careful not to attempt to use a screw that's too big or you'll split the plastic casing.



Remove these two Philips screws and don't lose them.




After the screws are out, carefully pull the panel straight back. The ODBC connector and hood release can be left attached.



Once the center panel has been removed, the first of two mounting screws for the cubby are exposed. It a Torx screw.



On the left side of the dash panel is a small access door. It pulls out from the leading edge. Be careful not to just jam a screwdriver in there and pry it open or you'll mark up the sharp edge of the dashpad. I inserted a small screwdriver just enough to get my fingernail in and pull it out. Take it easy here because you can see any marks you make. Plastic trim tools would work well here also.



Now that the access door is open the second retaining screw for the bezel is exposed. Remove both screws now and pull the cubby straight out of the dash.



Up under the left side of the dash (fairly close to where you're working) you should find two grey connectors that are taped to the harness. Untape them and route them to the opening you'll be inserting the new bezel and controller into.



Carefully insert the controller and bezel assembly into the opening and press it firmly into place so the secondary clips on the bezel seat properly into the dash. Plug in the connectors you untied above (they are two different sizes so you won't mix them up) and reinstall the two Torx retaining screws. Turn the ignition on to ensure that all the LEDs illuminate then go off. If it functions correctly then close the left access panel, replace the lower trim and secure it with the original screws.




This is the finished product with protective film removed from controller face.



Very nice!!

Paul
 
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#323 ·
Nevermind found it. i also notices that the wires run from their to the main junction plug at the back of the dash so i'll be tapping in their as i don't want to tap in the the WIN sense i'm installing remote start and don't want the tech to see that.

NODE-WIRELESS IGNITION-WIN
Harness Family: IP
Harness Part Number: 68066208AB
Cavities: 12
Color: BLACK
Gender: Female
Part Description: INSULATOR
Repair Kit Part Number: 05102402AA
Seal: Un-Sealed
Engineering Name: Mod_Wireless_Ctrl_WIN
Connector No: D3915A
Available Views:
Location View





Pin Circuit Wire Color Gauge/Size Function
A1 A106 LB/RD 22 FUSED B(+)
A2 NO CONNECTION
A3 F20 PK/WT 22 IGNITION RUN/START CONTROL OUTPUT
A4 Z911 BK/LG 20 GROUND
A5 D52 WT/LG 22 CAN C (+)
A6 D51 WT/LB 22 CAN C (-)
A7 K321 BR/YL 22 BTSI UNLOCK CONTROL
A8 L51 WT 20 BRAKE LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT
A9 NO CONNECTION
A10 NO CONNECTION
A11 NO CONNECTION
A12 T824 YL/DB 22 TRS PARK SIGNAL
 
#325 ·
My ITBM install adding the second connector

I got my ITBM and the can bus harness pigtail from a junk yard. i didn't have the connector so i needed the pigtail. I noticed that some of y'all have been using the WIN module as a can bus source. I decided to use the main junction block cutting the wires and using non insulated crimp connectors and solder to create a good splice and heat shrink for the OEM look.









 
#328 ·
.

Sorry if this has already been covered in here, but I didn't notice it and this thread seemed like the best place to ask. This is a pic of a 2013 RAM brake controller and it has a new location in the dash. I'm wondering if a controller for the model year ending 2012 will still work in a 2013 (since the dashboards haven't changed) ?

 
#329 · (Edited)
kevinhann, thanks for the response. Because of your post I decided to go and hunt the pick-a-parts to see what I could find. I was able to find and buy an ITBM and gray/black bezel out of a 2011 3500 dually for $65. Bought three #8 x 5/8 trim panel screws from the hardware store to secure bezel to module and to secure rear of module to dash support . Everything came apart just like Netman66 post described. Installed ITBM and bezel plugged in the large "A" plug (no "B" plug, just spliced into the pink/greenwire and hooked up to B3). Hooked up to my neighbors 21ft Jayco travel trailer and went on a 20 mile test run. Worked great w/o the CAN + - wires. So if you have an ST or Tradesman w/o EVIC there is no reason to worry about the CAN + - wires.
 
#331 ·
A note to add for those searching this thread: My 2012 Ram 1500 4x4 Tradesman only had the single plug. The ITBC did require that I splice the power wire and the CAN +/- wires to work properly. I got the "CF" error message when only hooked up to the power wire.

The truck has the base dash but also power doors/windows and tire pressure monitoring system so I assume the EVIC is still present despite not having the nice display on the dash.

After a quick test everything works perfectly, I'll stop by the dealer to see if they still have to reflash. Thanks for the writeup!

kevinhann, thanks for the response. Because of your post I decided to go and hunt the pick-a-parts to see what I could find. I was able to find and buy an ITBM and gray/black bezel out of a 2011 3500 dually for $65. Bought three #8 x 5/8 trim panel screws from the hardware store to secure bezel to module and to secure rear of module to dash support . Everything came apart just like Netman66 post described. Installed ITBM and bezel plugged in the large "A" plug (no "B" plug, just spliced into the pink/greenwire and hooked up to B3). Hooked up to my neighbors 21ft Jayco travel trailer and went on a 20 mile test run. Worked great w/o the CAN + - wires. So if you have an ST or Tradesman w/o EVIC there is no reason to worry about the CAN + - wires.
 
#333 ·
I plan to try this install at some point using the .pdf (and splicing - 2010 1500 with one connector). Does anyone know if the mopar developed splice-in pigtail mentioned in a couple places in this thread has ever been released? (so I can harass my parts guy)

Also, does anyone have the original first post (or first page) of this thread saved somewhere? I'm after the pictures that Netman66 posted in the original post.

@Netman66 - please fix the broken links if you can ever make the time, which can be virtually impossible for some, so I understand....just figured I'd ask.

Thanks all for this thread.:smileup:
 
#338 ·
I know this has been beaten to death, but I still have a question I haven't seen answered. I have a 2011 Sport that has had a lot of mods and a custom Hemifever tune. If I put in a controller and have my TIPM flashed, will it mess with my ECM tune at all?

Anyone out there done this with a custom tune?
 
#339 ·
I know this is an old thread but it was TREMENDOUSLY helpful! I wanted to use the factory brake controller in my new-to-me 2012 RAM 1500 ST and couldn't have done it without everyone here. I also only had the single connector under my dash. I read where some guys had only connected the +12V switched pin (B3) and claimed it worked for them. It didn't work for me until I connected up the CANBUS + and - pins (B1, B2) as well. (Even though I don't have EVIC) I would get the CF message and flashing trailer icon. After I hooked up the CANBUS connectors the brake controller would power up and then go dark like it should.

Thanks again guys!
 
#340 ·
I have the correct Yazaki connector and will make up the harness and try it in a 2012 screw.

How critical is the wire gauge? I have similar colored and sized wires I got out of a dodge truck at a bone yard and was going to try them.

I'll let you know how it works out.
 
#342 ·
Is there anyway to test the module? I have a 2010 SLT CC. Previous owner must’ve had an aftermarket brake controller judging by the screw holes in the knee boaster and the second plug wired in. I picked up an ITBC from another 2010 1500. I have had it installed for a minute but now trying to test it out because no power to the rear trailer plug. Dealer says they have to flash it to install the tow package. I don’t have an EVIC and could care less. I don’t feel like paying $85 for a dealer flash when this thread basically states I don’t need it. So I’m going to recheck all the wiring but any way to check the actual module???
 
#343 ·
Bought a used 09 ram with a shitty aftermarket brake controller. Bought OEM unit and found when the aftermarket was installed they clipped the connectors, any idea where I can get new connectors. Local dealer said I need a whole new harness for 2 connectors and 6in wire. Any help would be appreciated. Pics or part name would be really appreciated
 
#344 ·
Clipped which connector? The factory 4-wire harness that provides the +12V, ground, brake switch sense and output to the trailer brakes? Must be - since that's the only connector the '09s have. I wouldn't bother trying to replace the OEM connector. I'd just hard-wire the harness that comes with the brake controller right to the necessary wires. Or, if you want a connector of some type, I'd just use a female 4-way-flat trailer connector. White to ground, brown to +12V, yellow to the brake sense, green to the trailer brake output. Then modify your brake controller harness with the male 4-way-flat counterpart.

You said you picked up an OEM brake controller - you mean the one meant to install in the cubbyhole slot below the headlight switch? If so, you're making your own wiring harnesses anyway.

Give me a little more info on exactly what you're trying to hook up, as well as a score of your electrical wiring ability, on a scale from 1 to 10.
 
#346 ·
Got it. Okay - since you most likely don't have a wiring harness with the proper connectors to plug in to the back of the factory brake controller, you're going to be using female spade terminal connectors to plug directly into the back of the brake controller. So in that case, I recommend just splicing onto the end of the cut-off factory wires, and extending them to the controller, and terminating with the female spade terminals.

The factory wires at the cut-off brake controller connector are as follows:
14ga. Yellow/red - +12V power - this goes to A3 on the controller
18ga. White - Brake switch sense - this is A2 on the controller
14ga. Dark Green - Output to trailer brake - this is A4 on the controller
18 ga. Black/Dark Green - ground - this is A1 on the controller

In addition, you'll need to run three wires from terminals B1, B2, and B3 on the controller to the CAN Bus wires (B1/B2 to 22ga. white/light blue / 22ga. white/light green, and B3 to an ignition-switched +12V supply - suggested is the 20ga. pink/light green wire)

This is how I installed mine about 6 years ago.
 
#348 ·
Has anyone had an 09 had all the wires connected correctly (A/B plug wires) and it still throw the CL code? Is it at all possible it will need a flash to enable the oem controller? Checked the voltages, brake sense when pedal depressed etc. By all accounts wired 100% correct and good connections. Yea yea I know go aftermarket...lol..but I like the clean oem install lol
 
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