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  • · Registered
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    Thanks for the info you left on my message board, Ill do the same. I'm Pete and I live about 30 miles north of Detroit Michigan. I'm single, 24, and pretty much just still in that part of my life where I'm having a good time. I'm pretty new to the automotive business, only been officially in it for about 4 years and with chrysler for 2.5 years but I've learned TONS in that time, plus I've been working on cars and trucks for about 8 years, I built a few 1980's chevy trucks for mud bogging, the first being my 1988 k5 blazer which I still have today. I'm level 4 in everything but I'm best in engine repair, trans, axles, 4x4, brakes, and suspension. I HATE hvac, driveability and anything do do with interiors. I'm pretty good with diesels, and I have a ton of useless knowledge of carburetors. Thats pretty much it, look forward to talking more around the forum.

    · Resident Technician
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    when I was in the army and working with the 903, I didn't have the opportunity to mess with the fuel injection system on them. Being field level maintainence (basically we were the mechanics that were on the front lines) we would just swap out the entire powerplant if we had a problem requiring internal or fuel system work. This is because it's a lot quicker in a combat situation than trying to diagnose and repair this kind of problem in the field.

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    268 Posts
    HI Randy! I remember you saying a couple months back, you recognized my vt903. (from your military experience?)

    anyway, I just did an inframe oh on this engine, and I did the injector setup as follows:
    I rolled the engine so the VS mark on the balancer was under the pointer (basically 2 oclock) looking at the front of the engine. I then torqued the injector to 50 inch pounds for that respective cylinder.
    Using the dial indicator (measuring distance to injector 'closing') when tappet was on low side of cam was the other method.
    which way are you familiar with?

    · Resident Technician
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    Yours is the 545RFE. The differences are only in performance as they are identical inside. The 545 has the benefit of 2 overdrive ratios as opposed to the 45's single ratio.

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    8 Posts
    Thanks for the info and advise.
    I want to do what's best. I guess I'm just going for a tranny.
    I defiantly don't need one that might have metal floating around.
    My truck is a 2005 5.7 QC 4x4 vin D, do I have a 545rfe or the 45rfe ? And can you clarify the differance between them ? I have seen much talk surrounding the 2. Not much convincing info however.
    Thanks man.

    · Resident Technician
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    Either way, the converter should be replaced. If the pump went out, theres a chance you have metal in the converter that could damage it and a flush may not get it all out. My best advice would be to have the trans rebuilt with a new converter and if cost is an issue, look into a savlaged unit with the converter and have it flushed when it's installed.

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    8 Posts
    Thank you for the response my friend.
    Could it be both ? If it were both issues, would you say best route to go would be a fix or would the cheaper way be replacement ?
    Thank you for your help

    · Resident Technician
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    14,200 Posts
    The most likely causes are either a torque converter or transmission front pump gone bad.

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    8 Posts
    Hello,
    I have seen some of your advise out there to others. Your knowledge is quite apparent.
    I figure you will know what I'm dealing with.

    I have a 2005*Dodge*Ram 1500 Hemi 4x4 QC that just turned 124k miles...Driving on the highway at 70mph depress throttle to pass someone and the truck felt like it popped out of gear like it just went into neutral, but it was still in Drive. When I gave it gas, the motor would just rev out with a 'whining' noise that was never there before. I pulled over, no D, 1 or 2...no reverse, truck wouldn't move...with*4x4*engaged, still no movement forward or back. Fluid LOOKS good, visible leaks.
    I'm lost as I don't know a thing of mechanics. I fear I will be bent at a shop.

    Thank you,
    ** *James.

    · Resident Technician
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    14,200 Posts
    A pressure test is the best route to go. A loss of cooling system pressure with no visible leaks fron anyhting in the engine compartment indicates a need to go into the dash and check the core for a leak. Any sign of coolant coming from the evaperator drain or coolant in the floorboard is also a sign.

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    14 Posts
    It's not necessarily a strong smell but its there. It goes away after a bit though. Could it still be a core? Is there a test that can be done? Thanks!

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    14 Posts
    Thanks the sound finally worked it's way out but now I have a different issue. There has been a coolant smell coming from the vents even before the radiator was replaced. I thought that would fix it but still there. There doesn't appear to be a leak in the radiator core but the fluid went down in the overflow. I don't think it is a head gasket, just chnged the oil and it was a dark brown color. Any ideas? If it was the core where would the coolant go? Thanks!

    · Resident Technician
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    I think you should break it in like you intend to drive it all the time. The only big no-no is cruising at highway speeds for the first 1000 miles or so. You need to vary the rpm's as much as possible if you have to do any highway driving.

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    22 Posts
    Hello, Wanted to ask you about break in peroid of a hemmi if you dont mind. The first day I got it new I did a quick acceleration not to the floor and not a burn out, but I was worried it might not be good for it at that time, what do you think?

    · Resident Technician
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    14,200 Posts
    Its probably just coolant flowing through the heater core. Irritating but not known to cause any problems.
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